
Ninety seconds on Volcán Osorno
The near-perfect cone over Lago Llanquihue is one you can get onto: ride the chairlift to a high station for the view, or come in summer and climb past the glaciers to the top.
Osorno rises to 2,652 metres between two lakes, Llanquihue and Todos los Santos, and fills the view across the water from the lakeside towns. Three small towns lie around its base, Puerto Klocker, Ensenada and Petrohué, and the road to the chairlifts starts from Ensenada.
The volcano last erupted in 1869 and has been quiet since. Lava from its eruptions ran all the way down to both lakes.
The upper cone is heavily glaciated. Several routes cross that ice, but only two are climbed regularly: the Ruta Normal and La Picada.
If you are not climbing, the ski centre on the lower slopes has chairlifts that take you high up the cone without the climb. In winter the same slopes carry skiers, snowboarders and families with tubes and sleds.
Drive up to the chairlift base station, where the tour buses park. The first chair climbs to the Primavera station, and from there a second chair carries on further up the volcano.
Take the second chair for the panoramic view, or walk the paths up from the base station instead of riding. The summit is a separate day: register at the CONAF ranger post in Ensenada or the one on the volcano, then start from the treeline trailhead at about 1,300 metres.
For the summit, hire a tour operator registered with Sernatur, Chile's national tourism service, and ask to see the registration before you book. For the chairlift and the paths around the base station you need no guide at all.
Carry snow chains in the car whatever the month. Park up by the base station, which is safer than leaving the car lower down the access road.
If you come on a day tour that also takes in the Petrohué falls, the stop at the volcano can be as short as one hour. Go straight to the chairlift and leave the paths for a visit in your own car.
Explore the rest of Puerto Varas

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