
Ninety seconds on Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka
Osaka's Museum of Oriental Ceramics is closed for renovation, and once it reopens you can see one of the world's finest collections of East Asian ceramics in a few quiet rooms, a minute's walk from Naniwabashi station.
Two National Treasures are the pieces to look for. One is the Yuteki Tenmoku tea bowl from China's Southern Song dynasty, and the other is a celadon vessel. Both sit in a collection of about 5,700 pieces.
The core is the Ataka Collection, given to Osaka by 21 companies of the Sumitomo Group, which is why a city museum holds work of this rank. Beyond the two treasures, look for the celadon and for the hand-painted vases and plates.
The Korean side is the other strength. A Korean resident of Japan, Rhee Byung-Chang, gave 301 Korean pieces, among the world's top private collections of Korean ceramics.
Look at how the light falls as you go round. Part of the exhibition space takes natural daylight, so you see the glazes in soft sunlight rather than under spotlights alone.
Easiest is to start with whichever collection you came for, since the Chinese and Korean ceramics each have galleries of their own. The Chinese pieces, from the Eastern Han through the Song to the Yuan and Ming dynasties, fill a bright, high-ceilinged space divided into two rooms. The Korean galleries, with Goryeo and Joseon pieces, are smaller and more intimate.
Displays rotate often, drawing on the museum's own collection and on themed exhibitions, so check the official site before you come for one particular piece. Finish at the museum's café, KITONARI.
Ask for the rose jelly in the light-filled tea room; it is served from April to November only, so a winter visit misses it. If you live in Osaka City and are 65 or over, carry ID, because a concession applies at the desk. Children of junior high age and under do not need a ticket at all.
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