Ameyoko

What makes it special

Ameyoko is a run of shops built under the elevated JR tracks, with more stalls lining the street alongside. It stretches about 500 metres between Ueno and Okachimachi stations and splits into a Y of connected lanes, so on a first walk it is easy to lose track of which arm you are in.

The market began after the Second World War as a black market, selling goods nobody else could get. It is now one of Tokyo's best-known streets for bargains.

Unrelated trades sit side by side. Sneakers, Thai fish sauce and cosmetics can share thirty metres of pavement, next to fruit, vegetables and groceries.

The seafood trade gathers toward the Ueno end: dried fish, bonito flakes, boxed sea urchin, frozen crab legs and mounds of dried squid sold by weight.

Visiting

Starting at Ueno Station lets you browse the dried fish first, then walk the lanes toward Okachimachi. Eat as you go: the stalls grill scallops in the shell and sell fresh fruit on sticks.

For something filling, order a kaisendon, a bowl of sashimi and other seafood over rice. Or try a tachinomiya, a standing bar that serves food and drink with no seats.

When the crowd gets too thick, step into Marishiten Tokudaiji temple for a quiet break. The walk ends at Okachimachi Station, so you need not double back.

Tips

Unlike most of Japan, the vendors here will sometimes haggle, especially on bulk food and toward closing. Ask politely, leave it to the end of your walk, and skip it in drugstores, chain shops and anywhere with barcodes and a register.

Small stalls and seafood vendors often take only cash, though IC transit cards work at most of the larger shops. Tax-free shopping applies at some shops only, so ask before you buy and bring your passport. Step aside from busy shop entrances while you decide.