Tokyo National Museum

Visiting

Two buildings repay a first visit, and they sit at opposite ends of the grounds. Go straight ahead from the Main Gate into the Honkan, the Japanese Gallery, and climb to the second floor. Its rooms run in order from Jomon clay to Edo woodblock prints, with swords, armour and ink paintings on the way.

Then head back towards the gate and keep far left for the Gallery of Horyuji Treasures, a modern building that holds the treasures of Horyu-ji, one of Japan's oldest Buddhist temples. Dozens of small gilt Buddhas stand in a dark room, each under its own light.

With time left, the ground floor of the Heiseikan shows haniwa, clay figures from ancient tombs. The Toyokan, on the right of the gate, covers the rest of Asia, Egypt included. Come in spring or autumn and you may find the garden behind the Honkan open: it has five old teahouses and opens for only a few weeks each season.