
Ninety seconds on Sesriem Canyon
One easy walk is all you need for this narrow gorge, cut by the Tsauchab River into layered rock a few minutes from the Sesriem gate. You can fit it in before or after the dunes, on the same day.
The Tsauchab River cut this narrow gorge into the local sedimentary rock more than two million years ago. It is small, about a kilometre long and up to 30 metres deep, and you see all of it in one walk. What it lacks in size, it makes up in looks.
Look at the walls: stacked bands of sedimentary rock that show the area's geological history layer by layer. At sunset the whole wall turns deep amber.
At the foot of the gorge lie pools that refill after good rains, and one stretch holds water all year. In the dry season that water makes the canyon an emergency water hole for oryx, springbok, ostrich and other desert game.
The pools also gave the place its name. Early settlers had to tie six lengths of rawhide thong, or riem, together before their bucket reached the water, and Sesriem means six thongs.
Come in the early morning or the late afternoon, when the light is best and the heat is easier to bear. The canyon sits close to the Sesriem gate, so you can see it before or after you pass through to the dunes. Walk the canyon floor at an easy pace.
The trail ducks under overhanging rock shelves and squeezes through narrow sections, and about forty minutes covers it. Look up for baboons watching from the ledges, and down for oryx standing still in the shade of the thorn trees.
In the early morning, small groups of springbok come to drink from the water pooled on the bottom. Check the sunset time before you set out: the park gate shuts then.
You can do the main walk on your own. A guide adds names for the wildlife you pass and helps with navigation and road safety, which matters most after rain. Go with one if you want a more informative visit.
Wear sturdy, closed shoes for the canyon floor, and for the dunes if you climb them the same day. For photographs, go early or late, when the walls sit in shade and reflected light. Keep children close near the steep edges, the narrow passages and any deep water.
In summer the heat can pass 40°C, so stay out of the gorge in the middle of the day. In the rains you may have to swim through ponds to reach the deep recesses.
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