Things to do
6-
Gaub Pass
On the road towards Walvis Bay, the route drops through a canyon cut by an ephemeral river, with layered rock walls standing above the road on both sides. Camel thorns grow in the bed. A picnic site sits at the bottom and is the only shade for a long way in either direction.
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Naukluft Mountains
A dolomite massif south of the settlement holds springs and permanent pools, which is why Hartmann's mountain zebra and leopard live in it and why the trails follow the kloofs. An eight day circuit crosses the range for experienced walkers. Day routes from the park office need no more than boots and water.
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Olive Trail
A circuit of about ten kilometres climbs out of the Naukluft park office, runs along a ridge and drops into a gorge where chains are fixed to the rock for the traverse above a pool. Wild olives grow along the watercourse. It takes a morning and is done clockwise for the descent.
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Solitaire Roadhouse
Fuel, a general store, rooms and a bakery known across the country for its apple pie occupy one forecourt, with wrecked cars arranged around it. A Scottish baker started the pie and it has outlasted him. Almost every vehicle heading for Sossusvlei stops at this pump because the next one is distant.
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Spreetshoogte Pass
The steepest pass in the country drops off the escarpment in a gradient that trucks are banned from, and the view at the top runs out over the Namib to a horizon with nothing on it. Gravel and hairpins make up the descent. It is driven west far more often than east, for the view and for the brakes.
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Waterkloof Trail
The longer of the two Naukluft day walks covers about seventeen kilometres through a kloof with running water in it, climbing steadily to a plateau before looping back down. Pools along the way are deep enough to swim in. It wants an early start and a full day, and the rock is hot by noon.