Ihlara Valley

What makes it special

Ihlara is a canyon cut by the Melendiz river, 14 kilometres long, with walls that reach about 120 metres at some points. Watch the banks for birds, frogs and the odd turtle.

The churches are why the valley matters, and many are still painted inside: in a local style near Ihlara village, in a formal Byzantine one near Belisırma. From the 7th century, Byzantine monks dug their houses and churches into the soft tuff of the walls.

On the church walls, look for Daniel among the lions, the Annunciation and the Ascension. One church was decorated between 1283 and 1295 for a noblewoman named Tamar.

The paint is in uneven condition, because the churches stood open for centuries and many were vandalised. Some doorways are low enough that you stoop to get in, and the light inside is dim.

Visiting

Four kilometres of mostly flat path run along the canyon floor between the main stairway at Ihlara village and Belisırma, and that stretch is the walk to do. Buy your ticket at the main entrance and study the map of the sections posted there. Then take the stairway down, more than 100 metres, to the river.

At the bottom, the path follows the Melendiz, with churches cut into the walls on both sides. Paths run along both banks for much of the way, so you cross the footbridges to reach the churches on the far side.

Walked briskly, the stretch takes about an hour and a half; with three or four churches and a break by the river, allow two and a half to three hours. Belisırma has wooden terraces over the river serving grilled trout and gözleme, but bring your own food in case they are closed.

Belisırma has its own road entrance, so a driver can collect you there and spare you the walk back. If you drove yourself and nobody can collect you, walk back the same way to the car.

Guided or on your own

Going on your own works if you have a car: you set the pace, choose your churches, and can take the audio guide offered at the main entrance.

A guided day from Göreme suits you if you are not driving, since it covers the transport and often continues to Selime Monastery at the northwest end. A guide also points out the churches that are unsigned or unlit, which are easy to walk straight past.

Tips

Carry some cash in case a kiosk or restaurant does not take cards. Wear proper walking shoes for the uneven riverbank path, and bring a torch for the dark church interiors.

Pack at least 1.5 litres of water for the Ihlara to Belisırma stretch, and 2.5 litres if you go on to Selime.

Some footbridges across the river are rickety, so check each one before you cross. Past Belisırma the path to Selime turns wilder and lonelier: start early, and arrange your ride back from Selime before you set off.

Mummified cats found in the valley are exhibited in Aksaray Museum and Niğde Museum, if you pass through either town.