Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

What makes it special

The temple is Doric, built of local stone from the nearby Agrileza quarries, which has a white-grey tone that turns gold in the evening. Fifteen of its original 34 columns still stand. The same architect is credited with the Temple of Hephaestus in the Ancient Agora, so if you have walked round that one in Athens, you already know the plan.

Fourteen slabs of its carved frieze, with Centaurs, giants and the labours of Theseus, are in the Archaeological Museum of Lavrio, a short drive north.

From the temple on a clear day you can pick out the islands of Kea and Kythnos on the horizon. Myth has King Aegeus throwing himself from this cliff when he saw black sails on his son Theseus's ship, which is how the Aegean got its name.

In the sandy cove to the north, a shed for two warships is cut into the rock where they were hauled out of the water. On a low hill about 400 metres north-east lie the foundations of a sanctuary of Athena.

Visiting

The KTEL Attikis coastal bus to Sounio leaves from Pedion tou Areos, by Mavromateon Street, and runs down the Riviera through Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. It takes close to two hours and stops a short uphill walk from the site entrance; the timetable is on ktelattikis.gr. By car it is a little over an hour, and there is parking outside the site.

From the ticket booth, follow the paved path up the slope to the temple platform. Walk the full circuit of the temple first, while the light is still high and the stone looks white.

Then move to the western side of the platform and pick your spot along the cliff edge for the sun going down. The site shuts at sunset, so the walk back to the gate is in the last of the light.

Tips

If you have a car, make the drive part of the day: stop for a swim or a coffee at one of the beach towns along the Riviera on the way down, and still reach the temple with time to spare.

Bring a light jacket. The cape is exposed and can feel windy and cool on a summer evening.

Byron's name is carved into the temple and draws a small knot of people, so be patient for a close photo. For dinner afterwards, Lavrio is the nearest town with fish tavernas.