
Ninety seconds on Hakone Ropeway
From the cabin, about 130 metres up, you look straight down into Owakudani, a valley of steaming vents and yellow sulfur rock, and you get off in the middle of it.
The ropeway runs about 4 km from Sounzan Station to Togendai on the shore of Lake Ashi, and its first section crosses the Owakudani volcanic valley. From the cabin the valley is a desolate mountainside under constant plumes of white smoke. Its former name was Hell Valley.
Midway between Sounzan and Owakudani, Mount Fuji appears to the west on a clear day. Then the cabin passes over the valley itself, and a smell of rotten eggs reaches you inside. That is hydrogen sulfide, released by the volcanic activity below.
Past Owakudani the cabins carry on down to Togendai, and on clear days the ride also looks out over Lake Ashi.
The ticket to buy at Sounzan is the one for your final station, because you can get off at Owakudani and board again later. The Hakone Freepass covers the ride. Riding from Sounzan, sit on the right for the best view of the volcanic valley.
Get off at Owakudani, the midpoint, about 15 minutes from Sounzan. The station has an observation platform over the valley and a restaurant with the same view.
Outside, walk the 30-minute circular path past the most active vents, where eggs are boiled black in the sulfurous steam at about 80°C. The path can close when gas levels rise, so check it on the day. Allow 60 to 90 minutes for the stop, then board again for Togendai and the lake.
In fog you see nothing from the cabin, so check the weather before you ride for the view. Close the windows when staff ask, because the sulfur gas over the valley can get strong.
Bring a light jacket even in summer, because the top of the ride is noticeably cooler than the lake shore. Leave large luggage in the coin lockers or with the office at any station and ride with a day bag. Pets travel only in a cage or a carry bag with a lid that closes.
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