Lake Ashi

What makes it special

Lake Ashi is a crater lake on the southwestern wall of the Hakone caldera, and the largest lake in Kanagawa Prefecture. On a clear day Mount Fuji rises beyond its shore, and on a still one you may see the mountain reflected in the water.

The best-known view on the lake puts Fuji and the Gate of Peace, the red torii of Hakone Shrine standing partly in the water, in one frame. Both sit in one view from the deck.

The ships are the other thing to look at. Each is built to resemble a 17th- or 18th-century European warship, with a carved figurehead at the bow, and the cabins are panelled in wood from floor to ceiling. On board, look down: sixty different patterns of yosegi-zaiku, a wood-inlay craft, are set into the floors and walls.

Sightseeing boats have crossed the lake since 1911, and the warship-style boats since 1950.

Visiting

Board at Togendai, the northern pier, to sail south, or at Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi to sail north. Join the queue and show your ticket or pass at the gate; there is no need to line up long before the sailing.

Once aboard, climb to the open deck and keep to the outer right-hand side as the ship heads south, since Fuji sits behind you over the western shore. The mountain shows for only part of the crossing, so stay outside rather than settling into the cabin.

The ship calls at Moto-Hakone, on the eastern shore, and at Hakone-machi, a ten-minute hop on at the southern end. Get off at Moto-Hakone for Hakone Shrine, or ride on.

Tips

Early sailings in autumn and winter tend to give the clearest view of Fuji, and in autumn the hills around the lake turn red, orange and gold.

A return ticket lets you get off at any pier and board a later boat, so you can walk up to the shrine and sail on afterwards. The first-class cabin is charged extra on every crossing, but it is quieter than the main decks.