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Ninety seconds on Ulcinj Old Town
Late afternoon is the time to come: the heat is off the steps and you can watch the sunset from the ramparts. The shopping is in the Čaršija below, so do not expect a bazaar up here.
Most of the quarter is houses, small hotels and restaurants, because the old buildings are lived in or have new uses. The former church, a mosque under the Ottomans, now holds the archaeological museum: Roman urns, incense burners and carved stonework. The display is loosely arranged, so rent the audio guide.
The square in front was the slave market in the corsair years and now hosts events, and the Balšić tower beside it shows art. Find the Sakuraj fountain with its Arabic inscription under the arch. Then walk out on the ramparts for the view over Mala Plaža and the rocks off the point.
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