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Modern Bar spread along its bay below wooded hills, the port breakwater reaching out into the Adriatic
The new town and the port from the hills inland · the breakwater closes the harbour
Town brief · 42.0980°N 19.0955°E

Bar

Stari Bar's ruins are cool, quiet and nearly empty when they open at eight in the morning, and a room in the lane below the gate puts you there first, not down on the coast.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Bar

How long
One nightthe ruins, the olive tree, the sea
Getting around
Taxi or bus upthe old town is four kilometres uphill
When
June or Septembera warm sea and a cooler climb
The train
Night train from Belgradethe line ends here
Money
Euros, in cashsmall notes for the market and the bus
Airports
Podgorica TGDunder an hour by road; Tivat TIV is further
How long

How many days do you need in Bar?

One night. Stari Bar takes two to three hours and the walk down to the olive tree at Mirovica about half an hour, which leaves the evening for the seafront in the new town.

Getting around

How do you get from Bar to Stari Bar?

Stari Bar is about four kilometres uphill from the centre and the station. Taxis run from town, and local buses run up from near the station. The walk takes 45 minutes to an hour, on a road with no pavement in places. Inside the old town everything is on foot, on steep, uneven stone.

When

When is the best time to visit Bar?

June or September. The sea is warm enough to swim, and the climb through the ruins is easier than in July and August, the hottest and busiest weeks.

The train

Can you take the train from Belgrade to Bar?

Yes. Bar is the end of the line from Belgrade. A night train runs all year, leaving Belgrade in the evening and reaching Bar just before seven the next morning after about eleven hours, with seats, couchettes and sleepers. A daytime train runs in summer.

Money

What currency does Bar use?

The euro. Small notes are the useful thing to carry: the stalls at the green market deal mostly in cash, and coins and small notes are simplest at the Stari Bar ticket desk and on the local buses.

Airports

Which airport do you fly into for Bar?

Podgorica, TGD, is the nearest, about 45 kilometres and under an hour by road through the Sozina tunnel. Tivat, TIV, is about 58 kilometres up the coast road, around an hour and a half.

The rooms up at Stari Bar are guesthouses and small apartments in the lanes around the gate, so book ahead for July and August. A bed in the new town by the port means a taxi or a bus up every morning.

The paths in the ruins are uneven and the cobbles are polished smooth, slippery when wet, so wear shoes with grip. There is no step-free route, and a pushchair will not get far.

The old olive tree at Mirovica is about half an hour's walk downhill from the old town. Parts of the road have no pavement, so walk facing the traffic, or take a taxi for that stretch.

Spend the evening down by the sea. King Nikola's Palace and its park sit on the promenade, and Šušanj beach is a short walk north along it.

Ferries from Bar to Italy are not running, so plan any sea crossing through Dubrovnik or Durrës. The night train from Belgrade gets in about an hour before the ruins open, so leave your bags with your host and have breakfast first.

Things to do

8
  1. King Nikola's Palace

    King Nikola's Palace

    Museum · 1 hr

    King Nikola's Palace keeps the only original wall painting left in any Petrović royal residence, so head upstairs to see it. About 600 square metres of flowers, birds, fish and deer came out from under later paint during the restoration.

    View more →
  2. Stari Bar

    Stari Bar

    Ruins · 2 hr

    Climb to the citadel at the top of this abandoned walled town. From its rampart you see the whole ruined town at once, with the Adriatic beyond.

    View more →
  3. Church of St Jovan Vladimir

    Church of St Jovan Vladimir

    Church · 30 min

    A large, new Orthodox church in the town centre, a few minutes' walk from King Nikola's Palace. Inside, it is far more colourful than the plain stone outside suggests. Dress for a working church, with shoulders and knees covered.

  4. Rumija

    Rumija

    Viewpoint · 8 hr

    The 1,594 metre mountain behind Stari Bar, with Lake Skadar below one side of the summit and the Adriatic below the other. The path starts at Stari Bar and climbs about 1,300 metres through olive groves, forest and open meadow, four to five hours up and three to four down. In summer, start at first light and carry plenty of water for the open upper slopes.

  5. Old Olive Tree of Mirovica

    Landmark · 30 min

    Twenty minutes is enough here, best on the way to or from Stari Bar rather than as a trip of its own. Go for the trunk, scarred by fire and broken by age.

  6. Bar Market

    Market · 30 min

    Stalls under a concrete canopy in the town centre sell what the Bar hinterland grows: olives and oil from groves running up the hillside, figs, pomegranates, smoked ham and rounds of young cheese. Trading starts early and the best of it has gone by mid morning.

  7. Stari Bar Bazaar

    Old Town · 1.5 hr

    Save a coffee in this lane for after the ruins. Its cafés sit between craft shops and crooked, brightly painted stone houses on the climb to the gate.

  8. Šušanj Beach

    Beach · 3 hr

    About a kilometre of pebble and coarse sand, a ten-minute walk north of the centre along the seafront promenade. Pine trees grow almost to the water, so there is natural shade even in July and August. Cafés and showers line the back of the beach.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap
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Sources 1

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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