
Ninety seconds on Epupa Falls Viewpoint
Best in the last hour of light, when you can sit under the shade roofs on top and see every channel of the falls at once, with Angola across the river.
By August the Kunene runs low and reaches the lip of the falls in separate channels between bare rock. After a good rainy season in the Angolan highlands, the channels fill and the water turns brown with silt.
Wear shoes with grip and a sun hat, and carry water for the climb. You may find a local man under the roofs at the top, ready to explain what you are looking at.
If you would rather go with a guide, the camps by the river run trips with drinks to their own sundowner hill, booked at reception. Back down at the river, do not swim in the Kunene or in the rock pools at the falls: crocodiles live in this stretch and have attacked bathers in the pools.
Epupa Falls, and further afield
Makalani palms and baobabs line the Kunene where it breaks into channels and drops over a rock shelf, with Angola on the far bank. Himba…
Administrative capital of the Kunene, where Himba, Herero and Zemba come in to trade and where the tar road gives out. It is a working town…

Black gravel plains, bone coloured dunes and a fogbound shore run north from the Ugab gate for hundreds of kilometres. The southern section…