Cañón del Sonche

What makes it special

Compare the two walls first, because they are not the same rock. One side shows folded bands of compact limestone, and the opposite side is mostly sandstone. The protective wall along the rim is built from that sandstone and laid in zigzag patterns.

The Sonche has cut this gorge some 960 metres deep and about 11 km long. Downstream it runs on to Tingorbamba, where it joins the Utcubamba. The rim sits at 2,620 metres.

Quina, Peru's national tree, grows here with aliso and chamana. Watch too for the marvellous spatuletail, a hummingbird found only in the Amazonas region.

Back in the village, Huancas women still shape cooking pots and water jugs by hand and fire them in open wood-burning ovens. That pottery was declared part of Peru's national cultural heritage in 2012. Local crafts are shown and sold at the canyon site, so you can look for pieces there.

Visiting

Huancas is where the visit begins. From the plaza you walk out to the ticket booth at the entrance to the canyon, which doubles as a small information centre with basic toilets close by. Keep your ticket to show.

From the booth a short trail leads to the roofed lookout at the edge, where you can look down the gorge and walk along the sandstone wall. Food and drink kiosks stand on the site, and you can buy a snack or lunch back in Huancas.

Allow a morning for the outing from Chachapoyas. A second viewpoint, Mirador Huanca Urco, has its own ticket booth, so go on to it only if you want a second view of the same gorge.

Guided or on your own

You do not need a guide here: the path from the booth to the rim is short and easy to follow on your own. A guide suits you if you want the village and its pottery explained, or want the canyon paired with a second sight on the same day. Agencies in Chachapoyas sell tours that link up to two sights a day, so book one there.

Tips

Carry cash in small notes, because Huancas does not always have a cash machine. The rim has no shade, yet rain can come at any time and the wind turns cold, so bring a hat, sunglasses, sun cream and a rain jacket. Ordinary shoes with grip are enough for the short trail.

Stay behind the railings, since the wind at the edge can be strong. If you come by taxi and want the driver to wait or take you on to Huanca Urco, agree the fare before you set off. Mobile signal reaches the site on all three national networks.