Things to do
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Gibbs Hill Lighthouse
185 steps take you up a cast iron lighthouse on Gibbs Hill, to a view across the South Shore and the Great Sound. The tower is open, but the outside balcony at the top is closed for renovation.
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Horseshoe Bay
Swimming off Bermuda's famous pink crescent puts you on the only beach on the island with a lifeguard in every month. Come early and you have the sand nearly to yourself.
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Church Bay
Come by bus on a still morning, not on a southerly swell, which is common in summer. Bring a mask, since nothing here is reliably for hire.
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Port Royal Golf Course
You need no membership to play Port Royal: non-residents book tee times any day of the week, and clubs, carts and soft-spike shoes are all for hire. Bring a collared shirt.
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The Reefs
Staying here means dinner on the sand at a hotel small enough to feel private. The catch is stairs: the pool, the beach and Coconuts are all down the cliff below the rooms.
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West Whale Bay
Until the tide drops, the strip of sand below the cliff may not be there at all. Come at low water and you get sheltered shallows for young children and coral patches within a float.
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West Whale Bay Fort
Between late winter and early spring, bring binoculars to these walls: humpbacks pass offshore heading north, and the battery stands higher over open water than the lawn or the beach below.
