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Ninety seconds on Achilles Bay
Quieter and far smaller than Tobacco Bay, this cove has a rock to swim out to, with a ladder down into the sea. Bring a towel and shade: the loungers on the sand belong to the St George's Club.
The water stays clear and shallow a long way out before it deepens, so the snorkelling is easy. Rocks across the bay hold parrotfish, sergeant majors and the odd squid. The best ones to explore are on the left of the cove.
One large rock stands out of the water with a ladder fixed to it. Swim out and climb down the rungs, and the seabed is at arm's length. For a longer swim, follow the rocky shore away from the fort towards Tobacco Bay, then walk back.
Above the beach, the Beach House, formerly Blackbeard's Hideout, serves anyone who walks up, with the ocean in view.
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