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Ninety seconds on Tobacco Bay
If the wind is anywhere but north, go, but avoid midday in summer, when the rental loungers cover most of the sand and the bar queue is long. Swim out to the rock stacks, where the fish are.
From the sand, the stacks are a couple of minutes' swim, in water about three metres deep, with parrotfish and sergeant majors around the rock. Stay on the bay side. Through the gaps the seabed drops away fast and the water turns murky with silt.
Snorkel sets and kayaks are for hire on the beach, with water volleyball, a pool table facing the sea and a grill for lunch. Climbing the limestone is tempting but risky, and jumping off it is for confident swimmers only.
When a northerly blows the swell into the bay, walk ten minutes along the coast to Achilles Bay instead.
Explore the rest of St. George's
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The island's largest museum, held inside the Keep, the fortified upper end of the Dockyard the Royal Navy built to guard its stores.…
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