Ninety seconds on Arpoador
Before sunset, climb the granite headland between Copacabana and Ipanema for the sunset Rio knows best, with the whole curve of Ipanema and Leblon catching the last light below you.
Pedra do Arpoador is a low granite headland that almost splits Copacabana from Ipanema, with the Copacabana Fort on one side and the long Ipanema sand on the other. From its lookouts the view runs west over Arpoador beach, Ipanema and Leblon to the twin peaks of Dois Irmãos.
The name goes back to the whale hunters who used the rock as a lookout for whales coming in from far out.
At sunset dozens of people climb the lookouts and spread over the rocks. Surfers wait on the swell below, and vendors work through the crowd as the light falls.
On a clear evening, applause often spreads across the rock as the sun goes, a long local habit that nobody schedules or guarantees.
The good spots go first, so aim to be on the rock 45 to 60 minutes before sunset and climb without hurrying, since the granite is uneven. On weekends and clear winter evenings, come earlier.
Walk to the end of Avenida Francisco Bering and take the stairs up onto the rock. Small railings guard the lookouts, and the paths are lit for the walk down later.
Pick a spot on the higher lookouts rather than the lower ledges, which sit close to the spray and turn slippery when the sea is up. In summer some lookouts carry drinks kiosks with live music, and a city command post stands on the top of the rock.
Stay put once the sun has gone: the strongest colour often comes in the next ten to twenty minutes. Then walk into Ipanema for dinner rather than crossing the city as the crowd breaks up. Toilets are at the lifeguard posts on the beach.
Check the western horizon before you set out: cloud there matters more than the city forecast. Thin cloud on that horizon can deepen the colour, while a heavy bank of it can swallow the sun well before it sets.
Leave jewellery, a watch and spare cash at your hotel. Thieves target phones most between 4pm and 9pm, which is exactly the sunset window, so hold yours with both hands near an edge and put it away between shots. Never set a bag down behind you, and if anyone threatens you, hand over what they want.
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