
Ninety seconds on Selarón Steps
Worth a stop on even a short Rio stay, this public stairway links Lapa and Santa Teresa, and every step of the climb belongs to one artist's mosaic.
The 125-metre staircase is covered in thousands of tiles laid by the Chilean artist Jorge Selarón. Look for the green, yellow and blue of the Brazilian flag, with red for his native Chile: he had those tiles made for the stairway, broke them with a hammer and set the shards among whole ones.
Among them sit pieces from more than 60 countries, from formal blue Delft to hand-painted ceramics and tiles marking weddings. Tiles from American states are in the mix too, so you can climb hunting for your own country or state. A few hand-painted tiles carry Selarón's signature, and they are easy to miss unless you look closely.
The design was never finished. Selarón kept adding and removing pieces until his death, many of them salvaged from demolitions, bought or given to him.
The stairs have served as a set for music videos by U2 and Snoop Dogg. With more than 1.5 million visitors in 2025, the steps stay busy for most of the day.
Starting at the bottom, on Rua Joaquim Silva in Lapa, gives you the classic view of the whole staircase rising ahead of you in colour. Take that photograph first, then climb slowly and look at the tiles one step at a time.
The lower section is narrow, so keep moving and step aside for others there. The top comes out on Rua Pinto Martins in Santa Teresa, where you can walk on into the neighbourhood or turn back down to Lapa.
There are no toilets or other facilities on the steps. The cafés around them have restrooms for customers, so buy a coffee or a drink if you need one.
Light, breathable clothing matters most from December to March, the hottest stretch of the year.
Thieves work Lapa and Santa Teresa, and phones get grabbed most between 4pm and 9pm. Carry only your phone and a little cash, and leave your passport at the hotel. If you are robbed, hand it over and do not resist.
After dark Lapa turns into a busy nightlife district, so if you come then, come with a group. You need no guide for the steps themselves. Pair them with a walk through Lapa or Santa Teresa.
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