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Rovinj's old town from the water, St Euphemia's bell tower above the roofs and a wooden boat moored in the harbour
The old town from the harbour · until 1763 all of it stood on an island
Town brief · 45.0812°N 13.6387°E

Rovinj

Stay in the old town or beside it: the evening, once the day-trippers have gone, is Rovinj's best hour.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Rovinj

How long
Two nightsone for the lanes and the tower, one for the water
Getting around
On foot, the car left at Valdiboranothing inside the old town takes a car
When
Septemberthe peak runs late July to mid August; much closes in November
Language
Croatian and Italian, both officialthe town is Rovigno on every sign, and English is widely spoken
Money
The euro, since 2023Croatia left the kuna that January
Airports
Pula PUYabout forty kilometres south; Trieste TRS is two hours by road
How long

How many days do you need in Rovinj?

Two nights. The first covers the old town, St Euphemia and its tower, and a long dinner. The second is for the fish hall, a swim off the rocks or a boat to the islands, and an evening on the water, none of which fits between a morning arrival and an afternoon departure.

Getting around

Do you need a car in Rovinj?

Not in the town itself. Nothing inside the old town takes a car, and the beaches, Lone Bay and the Golden Cape forest park are all within walking distance along the shore. Drivers leave the car at the Valdibora car park beside the market. A car is worth having for the Lim channel, Dvigrad and the hill towns of inland Istria.

When

When is the best time to visit Rovinj?

September. The sea is still warm, the peak has passed, and the restaurants and island boats are still running. The busiest weeks are from late July to the middle of August. From November a good part of the old town shuts, the excursion boats come out of the water and several kitchens close until spring.

Language

What language is spoken in Rovinj?

Croatian and Italian, which are both official in the town: it is Rovigno as often as Rovinj, on signs and in documents. English is widely spoken wherever visitors go. The old local speech is Istriot, a Romance language of its own that now has only a few hundred native speakers.

Money

What currency does Rovinj use?

The euro. Croatia replaced the kuna on 1 January 2023, so anything priced in kuna in an old guidebook is out of date. Cards are taken in most restaurants and shops.

Airports

Which airport do you fly into for Rovinj?

Pula, PUY, about forty kilometres south and roughly half an hour by road. Trieste, TRS, in Italy, is the other option at about two hours. Between May and October a foot-passenger catamaran also connects Rovinj with Venice in about three hours.

Rovinj is a fishing town of about thirteen thousand on the west coast of Istria. Its old town once stood on an island, and the houses went up instead of out, which is why the lanes are so narrow. The town is officially bilingual, Rovinj and Rovigno.

The fish hall behind the market at Valdibora sells out of the overnight catch, and the lanes are washed down and quiet until mid morning.

Walk up Grisia to St Euphemia before ten, and climb the tower if open wooden stairs do not bother you. Leave the harbour front to the afternoon.

Then get in the water. There is no sand near the old town: Balota is bare rock under the walls, with ladders into deep water.

Heading south the shore softens, to the pebble of Lone Bay and the quieter coves past the Golden Cape forest park. Boats to Sveta Katarina and Crveni otok leave the harbour through the season and take about a quarter of an hour.

In summer, book restaurant tables even before your room, because they fill first. Inside the old town you are a short walk from everything, but you carry your bags a long way up polished stone.

The resort hotels sit back in the pines around Lone Bay, a twenty-minute walk along the shore. Close to half of all overnight stays in Rovinj are at the campsites on the coast either side of town.

Pula airport is about forty kilometres south, around half an hour by road. Passenger trains stopped running to Rovinj in 1966, and the old line is now a cycle path. From May to October a catamaran crosses to Venice in about three hours, foot passengers only.

A car is useful for the day trips inland: the Lim channel, the abandoned town of Dvigrad and the Bronze Age hillfort at Monkodonja.

Things to do

21
  1. Rovinj Heritage Museum

    Rovinj Heritage Museum

    Museum · 30 min

    Worth a break from the beach, Rovinj's town museum keeps five centuries of Italian painting in a red Baroque palace on the main square. Before you climb, check at the desk that the old masters are hanging, because temporary shows sometimes take over the rooms.

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  2. Rovinj Old Town

    Rovinj Old Town

    Old Town · 3 hr

    Outside the middle of the day, when the coaches are in, you have the maze of lanes almost to yourself as you climb through red-painted houses to the church at the top.

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  3. Balbi's Arch

    Balbi's Arch

    Landmark

    Dated 1680, this baroque gate stands where the old town's seaward entrance used to be, and it carries a Venetian lion above the arch with a Turk's head on the outer face. It is the shortest way into the lanes from the harbour square.

  4. Rovinj Aquarium

    Rovinj Aquarium

    Museum · 30 min

    Opened in 1891 as a field research station of the Berlin Aquarium, this is the oldest aquarium in the Mediterranean. It shows the marine life of the northern Adriatic in a small set of tanks, and it still sits alongside the marine research centre that grew out of the original station.

  5. Rovinj Market

    Rovinj Market

    Market · 30 min

    Fruit, vegetables, oil, cheese and truffle products under the awnings on the northern edge of the old town, with the fish market in its own hall alongside. The fish is landed locally and the stalls open early. Produce prices here are aimed at visitors rather than at the town.

  6. Church of St. Euphemia

    Landmark · 1 hr

    If heights do not bother you, climb the tower, but not at noon, when the bells ring right overhead. The church itself is free.

  7. Golden Cape Forest Park

    Park · 2.5 hr

    Georg Hutterott, a Trieste entrepreneur, bought this headland in 1890 and began planting it, which is how a bare Istrian cape came to hold Lebanese cedar, Douglas fir, ginkgo and eucalyptus among the native pine and laurel. Fifty two hectares, protected since 1961, with paths to swimming coves and climbing routes on the sea cliffs. Himalayan cedars stand in a six pointed star near the meadow.

  8. House of the Batana

    Museum · 30 min

    The rowing evenings are the reason to come: the museum takes visitors out on the water in a batana, Rovinj's wooden fishing boat. Book the rowing, the singing evenings and the open shipyard days in advance.

  9. Balota Beach

    Beach · 1.5 hr

    Bare rock directly beneath the old town walls, with ladders into water that goes deep immediately and no natural shade anywhere on it. The entry suits confident swimmers. It sits close enough to the old town for a swim before breakfast.

  10. Chapel of the Holy Trinity

    Church

    Seven sided and built in the thirteenth century, the chapel is among the oldest surviving structures in the town, and its plan is unusual enough to be worth the detour on its own. Romanesque at the base with Gothic detail above, it stands away from the old town on the square outside the former walls.

  11. Crveni otok

    Island · 3 hr

    Two islets joined by a causeway, wooded and ringed with rock and pebble swimming, about a quarter of an hour from the old harbour by boat. Known in Italian as Isola Rossa. The far side away from the hotel holds the quiet water, and the last boat back leaves well before dark.

  12. Dvigrad

    Ruins · 1.5 hr

    An entire medieval town abandoned in the seventeenth century after plague and war, standing roofless on a ridge inland with its church, walls and street plan still legible. Nothing has been rebuilt and nothing is staffed. The footing is rough across the whole site.

  13. Franciscan Monastery

    Monastery · 30 min

    Baroque, finished in 1750, and holding a library of around twelve thousand volumes, some of them sixteenth to eighteenth century rarities. A small museum of sacred art opens off the cloister. The complex sits at the top of the old town near the church, on the far side of the hill from the harbour.

  14. Grisia

    Landmark · 30 min

    Stepped and paved in polished stone, the lane climbs from the old town's centre to the church on the summit, lined with galleries and workshops for most of its length. On the second Sunday of August it becomes an open-air exhibition that has run every year since 1967, with work hung along the walls and doorways by professionals, amateurs and local children alike. The stone is slippery when wet.

  15. Limski kanal

    Canyon · 3 hr

    A drowned limestone valley running some ten kilometres inland from the coast north of the town, its walls rising steeply from green water on both sides. Shellfish are farmed along it. Excursion boats run in from the harbour, and the viewpoints on the road above take a car.

  16. Lone Bay

    Beach · 2 hr

    Pebble, calm and shallow enough for a long swim, about a kilometre and a half from the old town on the same coastal path. Cars cannot reach it. The pines come down almost to the water, which is what makes the shade here better than anywhere closer in.

  17. Monkodonja

    Archaeological Site · 1 hr

    A Bronze Age hillfort about five kilometres inland, occupied through the second millennium BC and excavated since the 1950s. Cyclopean walls, a reconstructed gate and a hilltop plan are all visible on the ground. Signage is limited and there is no shade on the walk up from the road.

  18. Obala Pina Budicina

    Waterfront · 30 min

    The harbour promenade under the old town's south face, where the batanas and the excursion boats tie up and the town walks in the evening. Cafés line one side and the water the other. It is the shortest way between the boat piers and the foot of Grisia.

  19. Palud Ornithological Reserve

    Park · 1.5 hr

    Brackish marsh behind the coast south of the town, and the richest bird site in this part of Istria, with a hide and a marked circuit round the water. Spring and autumn passage are the times it earns the trip. Mosquitoes are serious here from late spring onwards.

  20. Škaraba

    Beach · 2 hr

    A run of small rocky coves between the forest park and Cuvi, backed by pines and reached down short paths off the shore track. Nothing is built here, so there is no shade beyond the trees and nothing to buy. August crowds thin out this far south.

  21. Sveta Katarina

    Island · 2 hr

    Closest of the offshore islands, a few minutes out of the old harbour, wooded and small enough to walk round in half an hour. Boats run through the day in season. The reason to cross is the view back: the whole peninsula, the campanile and the working boats, seen end on from the water.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap

Dispatches

1
Rovinj Won Croatia's First Michelin Star, and It Is Still a Fishing Town
Rovinj

Rovinj Won Croatia's First Michelin Star, and It Is Still a Fishing Town

The kitchens that matter keep to the season, so a November visit finds a good part of the old town shuttered and the boats out of the water.

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Sources 2

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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