
Ninety seconds on Tour Philippe-le-Bel
Worth the climb for the view back across the Rhône: from the roof of this royal gatehouse you look out over Avignon and the Rhône valley from the far bank.
The tower takes its name from Philippe le Bel, the French king who built it as the gatehouse at the Villeneuve end of the Pont Saint-Bénézet, the bridge better known as the Pont d'Avignon. Its two upper floors later served as a prison, which is why a doorway and four niches are walled up.
Inside, three floors of vaulted rooms stack one above the other. On the second level, look for the original painted designs on the walls, which are easy to miss if you keep climbing.
The roof terrace stands 27 m above the ground, with a watchtower rising from it, and you can walk the full circle. Villeneuve-lez-Avignon sits at your back, and beyond Avignon the panorama carries on over the Rhône valley.
Starting on the ground floor, where a room holds temporary art exhibitions, you work your way up the tower one floor at a time. The permanent exhibition, Mémoires de tour, follows four themes along a route captioned in French and English.
Expect 124 steps of narrow stair between the floors, ending on the roof terrace under the watchtower. The climb is steep, so take it at your own pace and save some breath for walking the terrace all the way round. If the top matters to you, ask at the desk on the day you visit.
Guided visits of the tower are given on request, so ask at the desk or arrange one ahead; the bilingual displays work well enough on your own. Avignon's tourist office also runs a one-hour walking tour of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon that starts at the tower on avenue Gabriel Péri, so check its listings for start times if you want the town as well.
Aim for mid-afternoon, when the light on the roof is at its best for photographs, and expect a quiet visit away from the crowds across the river. Off-season hours change, so check with the Villeneuve tourist office before you travel.
At the top, close the wooden door behind you: it keeps the pigeons out of the tower.
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