
Ninety seconds on Borghese Gardens
From the Pincio terrace you get one of the great views over Rome; the free gardens behind it hold a rowing lake, a temple on the water and the Galleria Borghese.
The lake is the defining sight of the park. On a small peninsula in the middle of it stands the Temple of Aesculapius, an Ionic temple built between 1785 and 1792, and its columns are reflected in the water. The Viale del Lago path runs right round the shore, so you can see the temple from every side.
On the south edge of the park, the Pincio is a large piazza on the old Pincian Hill, with a balcony over the city. From its balustrade you look out across Rome. Just behind the terrace stands the Casina Valadier, a neoclassical pavilion with its own view over the city.
The villa at the heart of the estate houses the Galleria Borghese, whose collection includes Caravaggio, Bernini, Canova, Raphael and Titian. It is ticketed separately from the free gardens, so plan it as its own visit; the gardens stand as a sight in their own right whether or not you go inside. This is the third-largest public park in Rome.
The view from the Pincio terrace, at the south edge of the park, is the place to start. From the terrace, walk inland to the lake and follow the Viale del Lago, the footpath that circles the shore.
If the boats are running, ask at the cassa, the cashier, at the boathouse and give your party size. You are handed a numbered ticket, and when your number is called you get twenty minutes on the water, long enough to row or pedal out round the temple.
Keep to the main avenues and a loop takes an hour or an hour and a half; branch into the smaller paths and allow two to three hours. Bikes can be hired at several points inside the park if you want to cover more ground.
Carry cash and some ID if you plan to rent anything, because some rentals take cash only and keep your ID as a deposit. The boats charge per person, not per boat, so there is nothing to gain from squeezing into one.
Between July and September the park stages performances, usually in Italian, so check the language of a show before you buy a seat.
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