Plaza de Armas

What makes it special

Start at the cast-iron fountain in the middle. It stands where the Incas kept the ushnu, the platform at the centre of the square where offerings were made to their gods.

Next, turn to La Compañía, the Jesuit church. It rises on the foundations of Amarukancha, the palace of the Inca ruler Huayna Capac. Its carved Baroque front is one of the finest examples of colonial religious architecture in the Americas.

The cathedral fills the northeast side. Inside, look for the main altar worked in ornamental silver, and for the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata, which puts a roasted guinea pig on the table as the main dish.

Colonial arcades run round the remaining sides. Shops, cafes and restaurants sit under them, and several have balconies above that look straight down on the square.

Visiting

Walking the arcades round at an easy pace is the best start, past the shops and cafes under them. Then cross to the cathedral on the northeast side.

For the cathedral, go in visitor hours, 10:30am to 5pm daily. Buy the ticket at its door or use the religious-circuit ticket, since the Boleto Turístico does not cover it. Mass runs from 7 to 10am, when access to some areas may be restricted.

Inside, keep your voice down and leave the paintings untouched. Save the end of the day for a cafe balcony or a bench, and watch the sunset light on the two churches.

Guided or on your own

You need no guide for the square itself. For the story behind it, free walking tours with local guides cover the Incas, the Spanish conquest and how the city changed.

You can also see the cathedral with a guide, and some historic-centre tours include it, so check what a tour covers before you join.

Tips

Wear shoes with grip, because the streets round the square are cobbled and uneven in places. Carry a bag that closes and keep it close to your body when the square is busy. Bring sunscreen, because the sun is strong at this height.

If you have just arrived in Cusco, keep an unhurried pace, sip water and rest under the arcades. The square turns cold fast after sunset, so bring a warm layer for the evening. There is no public Wi-Fi in the square, so download your maps before you set out.