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The Plaza de Armas in Cusco seen from the air, framed by colonial buildings, with the roofs of the city climbing the hills behind
The Plaza de Armas from above · the starting point for almost every walk in the city
Town brief · 13.5171°S 71.9785°W

Cusco

Cusco puts Inca stone walls, the Qorikancha and the cathedral within a level walk of one square, and the trains and colectivos to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu start from here. Keep your first day on the flat streets around the Plaza de Armas while you adjust to the 3,400 metres.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Cusco

How long
Several nightsmore for the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and the high hikes
Getting around
Walking, and slowlyagree the taxi fare before you get in
When
May to Septemberoutside the rains, which run from about October to March
Language
SpanishQuechua is the other language of the region
Money
The Peruvian solcode PEN; small cash sums are rounded
Airports
Cusco CUZabout 20 minutes by taxi from the Plaza de Armas
How long

How many days do you need in Cusco?

Several nights, with extra days for the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and the high hikes, which each take a full day or longer.

Getting around

Is Cusco walkable?

Yes. The historic centre is compact, and the Plaza de Armas is the starting point for most walks. The streets up to San Blas, San Cristóbal and Sacsayhuamán are steep and take longer than the distance suggests.

When

When is the best time to visit Cusco?

May to September, outside the rains, which run from about October to March. Rooms book out months ahead for Inti Raymi on 24 June.

Language

What language is spoken in Cusco?

Spanish is the language of hotels, transport and signs. Quechua is the other language of the region.

Money

What currency is used in Cusco?

The Peruvian sol. In cash payments, shops round the total down to the nearest ten céntimos or up to the nearest five, so the change rarely matches the price to the last coin.

Airports

Which airport do you fly into for Cusco?

Alejandro Velasco Astete International, CUZ, about 3.7 km from the historic centre. Most flights connect through Lima, about 75 minutes away by air. By road from Lima the journey takes about 21 hours by bus, via Abancay.

The Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and the Qorikancha are a level walk from each other. If you feel unwell or out of breath before you adjust, coca tea is the usual local remedy. On a Sunday the Qorikancha opens only from two to five in the afternoon, so plan it for another day.

Then walk up Hatunrumiyoc past the Twelve-Angled Stone and on up the steep lane to San Blas, ten to fifteen minutes at a slow pace. Its workshops open Monday to Saturday, the artisan market fills Plaza San Blas on Saturday mornings, and the lookout above the square is best at sunset. Sacsayhuamán is higher again, about 3,700 metres, a ticketed site up a path from San Cristóbal church.

Sleep in the historic centre, close to the sights, and ask for a room off the street, because the centre is noisy. In San Blas every walk back to your room is a climb on steep cobbles. Do not drink the tap water, and pack a fleece and a warm hat, because the evenings are cold in every month.

Colectivos reach the terraces and market at Písac in about an hour and Ollantaytambo in ninety minutes. Stay a night in Ollantaytambo rather than making it a day trip.

Trains to Machu Picchu leave from Poroy station and from Ollantaytambo, and the site caps daily visitors, so book entry and train before you fly. The Humantay Lake tour leaves at four in the morning and Rainbow Mountain climbs to about 5,200 metres, so leave both until you have acclimatised.

Things to do

28
  1. Sacsayhuamán

    Sacsayhuamán

    Ruins · 2 hr

    Sacsayhuamán's three terrace walls stand on the hill above Cusco, built from some of the largest stones in pre-Hispanic America and cut to fit together without mortar. You can stand beside them and run your hand along the seams.

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  2. Cusco Cathedral

    Cusco Cathedral

    Cathedral · 1 hr

    Look for Marcos Zapata's Last Supper among more than 400 Cusco School paintings in Cusco's cathedral, the most important religious monument in the city's historic centre.

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  3. Plaza de Armas

    Plaza de Armas

    Landmark · 1 hr

    From the middle of Cusco's main square, you have the cathedral and the Jesuit church of La Compañía framing two sides, and colonial arcades with cafes and balconies running round the rest.

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  4. Cristo Blanco

    Cristo Blanco

    Viewpoint · 30 min

    A white statue of Christ erected in 1945 on a hilltop overlooking Cusco from the south-east. The monument stands 10 metres tall and is visible from much of the city.

  5. Qorikancha

    Qorikancha

    Temple · 1 hr

    The most important religious structure of the Inca Empire, built in the mid-fifteenth century in Cusco and dedicated to the sun god Inti. The site features precisely cut granite walls; colonial Spanish buildings were later built atop the Inca stonework.

  6. Corpus Christi

    Corpus Christi

    Event · 6 hr

    Stand on the Plaza de Armas on the Thursday afternoon, when fifteen saints go round the square on their decorated litters. For a view over the crowd, book a table on a restaurant balcony above the square.

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  7. Inti Raymi

    Inti Raymi

    Event · 8 hr

    Give the whole of 24 June to it and save your strength for the afternoon at Sacsayhuamán, where the full ceremony plays out. Take a grandstand seat if you can get one, or claim the free hillside by late morning.

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  8. Laguna Humantay

    Laguna Humantay

    Lake · 5 hr

    A turquoise glacial lake at 4,200 metres under the ice of Humantay, reached by a steep 90 minute climb from Soraypampa, three hours' drive from Cusco. It is the region's most popular day hike and an altitude test. The last stretch is loose underfoot, and horses wait at the meadow for anyone who wants the climb shortened.

  9. Rainbow Mountain

    Rainbow Mountain

    Mountain · 5 hr

    Mineral banding stripes the ridge of Vinicunca in rust, turquoise and ochre, exposed as the ice that covered it retreated. The trailhead sits above 4,300 metres and the viewpoint passes 5,000, so walkers who have spent a few nights in Cusco fare better. Tours leave in the small hours, cloud and sleet often close in by midday, and horses wait near the trailhead for anyone struggling.

  10. Museo Inka

    Museum · 2.5 hr

    Houses the largest collection of Inca artifacts in the world, including textiles, ceramics, and metalwork spanning pre-Columbian to colonial periods. Occupies the 16th-century Palacio Almirante (Admiral's Palace), a colonial mansion built atop Inca foundations.

  11. San Blas Neighborhood

    Neighborhood · 1.5 hr

    A historic quarter uphill from Plaza de Armas featuring narrow cobbled streets, colonial mansions, artist workshops, and the Church of San Blas. The neighbourhood preserves Inca street layout beneath Spanish colonial buildings.

  12. Convento de Santo Domingo

    Museum · 1.5 hr

    A 16th-century Spanish Dominican convent built directly atop the Qorikancha (Inca Temple of the Sun), preserving and displaying Inca stone foundations and architectural precision beneath colonial structures. Contains religious art and colonial-era furnishings.

  13. Museo de Arte Precolombino

    Museum · 1.5 hr

    Specialized collection of pre-Columbian art from across the Andean region, with emphasis on Inca, Nazca, and Moche cultures. Housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion with thematic, well-curated galleries.

  14. Museo del Sitio de Qorikancha

    Museum · 1 hr

    An on-site museum at the Qorikancha archaeological complex, 5 miles south of the city centre, displaying artifacts discovered during excavations of the Inca Temple of the Sun and its surrounding structures. Features metalwork, stone tools, and contextual displays explaining the site's ritual and astronomical significance.

  15. Museo Machu Picchu

    Museum · 1.5 hr

    Houses the largest collection of artefacts from Machu Picchu, including ceramics, textiles, and stone tools excavated by Hiram Bingham's 1911 expedition. The museum occupies a restored colonial mansion in the historic centre.

  16. Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

    Church · 30 min

    A Baroque church completed in 1668, renowned for its ornate interior with gold-leafed altars, indigenous-influenced carvings, and the Cusco School paintings that blend Christian iconography with Andean symbols. The exterior Baroque facade is one of Peru's most photographed colonial buildings.

  17. Museo de Arte Religioso

    Museum · 1 hr

    Occupies the 16th-century Archbishop's Palace and displays colonial religious art, vestments, and liturgical objects from Cusco's Archdiocese, with particular strength in Cusco School paintings and indigenous interpretations of Christian imagery.

  18. Museo de la Coca

    Museum · 30 min

    A small, privately curated museum documenting the history of coca cultivation, its ritual and medicinal use in Andean cultures, and its role in colonial and modern Peru. Includes leaf specimens, textiles, and ethnographic objects.

  19. San Blas Church

    Landmark · 30 min

    Small colonial church in Cusco's San Blas neighborhood, built in the 16th century with a single nave and gilt baroque altar. The pulpit is carved from a single block of wood.

  20. Cusco Museum

    Museum · 1.5 hr

    Come here to see Inka goldwork and carved ceremonial stone, and the colonial painting that followed, inside the house named for the chronicler Inca Garcilaso de la Vega.

  21. Kenko

    Ruins · 30 min

    Limestone shrine and ceremonial center three kilometers from central Cusco, featuring carved channels and a small underground temple. Likely used for water rituals and astronomical observations.

  22. Twelve Angled Stone on Hatun Rumiyoc Street

    Landmark · 30 min

    Halfway along Hatun Rumiyoc, one block of green diorite in an Inca wall carries twelve worked angles and sits without mortar against its neighbours, a demonstration of the masonry that carried the palace of Inca Roca. The wall now belongs to the archbishop's palace. The spot is small, crowded and watched by costumed guides who expect a tip for a photograph.

  23. Ausangate

    Viewpoint · 8 hr

    The sacred 6,384 metre mountain southeast of Cusco, circled by a four to six day trek over passes above 5,000 metres, past turquoise lakes and herds of alpaca. It is the hardest walk in the region and the emptiest. The circuit passes the striped hills on its southern side, and camps sit high enough for nights well below freezing.

  24. Huchuy Qosqo

    Ruins · 5 hr

    A small Inca town on a shelf 600 metres above the Sacred Valley, reached only on foot: a day's walk from Tambomachay over a 4,400 metre pass, or a steep climb from Lamay below. The great hall and the terraces have no crowd at all.

  25. Mirador de Capuliyoc

    Viewpoint · 1 hr

    The pass above Cachora where the Choquequirao trail leaves the road and the whole Apurímac canyon opens out 1,500 metres below, with the ruins a speck on the far side. Condors work the thermals here, and a rough road now reaches the viewpoint, so the canyon can be seen without walking the trail.

  26. Palccoyo

    Viewpoint · 3 hr

    Three striped hills and a stone forest at 4,900 metres, the quieter alternative to Vinicunca with an almost flat walk of 40 minutes from the car park. Same colours, and a fraction of the traffic. The walk reaches three viewpoints along the ridge, and it is done from Cusco in a long day.

  27. Q'eswachaka

    Bridge · 3 hr

    The last Inca rope bridge, spun from grass across the Apurímac gorge and rebuilt by four communities every June in a three-day ceremony. It is three hours south of Cusco and a rite before it is a crossing. The deck can be walked at any time of year, and it sags underfoot above a long drop to the water.

  28. Soraypampa

    Landmark · 1 hr

    The high camp at 3,900 metres where the Salkantay trek begins and the Humantay Lake walk starts, a meadow under the peak with glass sky-camp domes and mule trains. Cold at night all year. Mule trains leave at first light, and the domes and huts are booked through operators in Cusco, never on arrival.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap

Dispatches

2
The Saints That Used to Be Kings
Cusco

The Saints That Used to Be Kings

Cusco's grandest Catholic feast carries fifteen saints through the square the city once carried its mummified kings through, and eats chiri uchu, the cold plate made for it.

Choquequirao: 1,500 Metres Down, 1,800 Back Up
Choquequirao

Choquequirao: 1,500 Metres Down, 1,800 Back Up

The last great Inca city with no road in costs 1,500 metres down into the Apurimac canyon and 1,800 up the far wall, and a cable car is coming to end the silence.

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Easy to pass by from the plaza, Chinchero's parish church stands on the foundations of an Inca royal palace.

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Pisac's Inca citadel holds terraces, watchtowers, a carved sun stone and a cliff of old tombs along one ridge above the town.

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