
Ninety seconds on Carpaccio Square
Come at dusk, cross the square and walk round the old salt warehouse to the water, where you can watch the sun drop into the sea and the lights of the port come on.
Three things stand on this small square, and you can see all of them from its centre. The column of St Justina rises in the middle, a memorial to Koper's part in a Venetian victory at sea in 1571. The long building filling much of the western edge is the Taverna.
The Taverna was a Venetian salt warehouse built into the town wall, and it is now Koper's event hall. Inside, a stone water basin and a Venetian lion watch over the guests at its concerts and dinners.
The third is the Carpaccio House at number 6, a two-storey Venetian-Gothic house and one of the oldest buildings in Koper. The square is named for the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, whose family lived in the house.
One slow lap covers the square. Walk in through the narrow lanes of the old town, stop at the column in the middle, then cross to the Carpaccio House at number 6. Inside the house is an interactive digital exhibition on Vittore Carpaccio.
The Taverna hides most of the sea from the square, so walk round it to the promenade on the far side. From there you can follow the water past the little port to the market, or head the other way along the coast towards Izola.
On a summer night, stay for whatever is on under the arches: concerts, plays and even dance lessons.
If you want the old town explained, a free walking tour meets on Carpaccio Square and lasts about an hour and a quarter. It makes a good first hour in Koper before you explore on your own. Entry to the Praetorian Palace and the bell tower is not included.
For a summer evening with music, look up the Taverna's events listing: in past summers it has staged free concerts on Mondays.
Come early in the morning if you want softer light for photographs. If the old town was hot, follow the promenade from the Taverna and swim in the Adriatic.
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