
Ninety seconds on Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Short as the path is, the bamboo rises on both sides of you and closes over your head, so for its whole length you walk under a green roof with the city shut out.
Over 500 metres of walkway run through tall bamboo between Tenryu-ji temple and Nonomiya Shrine, in the Sagano district on the western edge of Kyoto. Moso bamboo grows tall and close here, and the stalks stand in ranks on either side of the path.
What you come to see is the light, which falls through the canopy and dapples the ground. Stop where the stalks stand thickest and look straight up. On a windy day, wait for a gust and listen, because the trunks creak as it passes through them.
Tenryu-ji, at one end of the path, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its garden is built around a pond, and the hills behind it are used to give the garden depth. Look past the water and you see the slopes become part of the view.
Approaching through Tenryu-ji gives the strongest first view of the grove. Walk through the temple garden and leave by its side gate, which opens onto the bamboo path. The temple keeps set hours that change with the season, so check them before you plan on this route.
At first light the temple is still shut, so walk the grove first and go back for the garden once its gate opens. On the path itself, go at an easy pace rather than hurrying through. Bikes can be rented to ride it, and rickshaw rides run through the bamboo too, though on foot you can stop wherever you like.
Come on a weekday if you can, since weekends are busier and public holidays are the busiest of all. Peak months are April and November, and the autumn colour around the grove is at its best from mid-November into early December, so set an early alarm then. Walk in single file or in pairs so the path stays clear.
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