
Ninety seconds on Sandwich Harbour
Sandwich Harbour's dunes drop straight into the Atlantic, and from a crest high above the surf you can see the desert end and the ocean begin. A guided 4x4 gets you there and back from Walvis Bay in half a day.
The dunes here reach up to 100 metres and run straight into the Atlantic, with nothing between the sand and the surf. The best views come from the high dunes overlooking the ocean.
Behind the beach lies the lagoon, 3.7 km long and 1 km wide, with open sand desert along its eastern side. Together with the salt pans and a bird sanctuary, it forms one of Africa's most diverse coastal wetlands, inside Namib-Naukluft National Park.
The lagoon is best known for its birds. Most of the flamingos in the area gather here, with herons and other waterbirds working the salt flats. Along the park's shore, the lagoons and mudflats draw hundreds of thousands of birds.
From Walvis Bay, tours usually leave around 8am or around noon, and the trip takes about four hours. Ask your operator which slot suits the tide, because a high tide closes the beach route. Around a full moon the tides run especially high, and access can shut after lunchtime.
Past the national park sign the 4x4 runs along the beach, then up and down dunes as high as a six-storey building. Watch for ostrich, oryx and springbok on the way, since the place holds far more wildlife than its bare look suggests.
The stop that matters is the crest of the high dunes, looking down on the surf and back over the lagoon. Some tours stop for a meal outdoors before the drive back.
Go with a guided 4x4 tour from Walvis Bay, as a half day, a full day or combined with other stops on the coast. Driving in yourself without a guide is not advised.
Beyond the park entrance sign there are no roads and no direction markers, only dunes and sea. A guide who reads the sand and the tide is what gets you in and out.
Bring warm layers, because the mornings are chilly and strong wind is a regular feature of the harbour. Wear sunscreen, sunglasses and sturdy shoes, and if lunch is set up outdoors, ask your guide to place it out of the wind.
Sand ends up all over you, so plan to go straight back to your hotel afterwards rather than on to dinner. If photographs matter most, ask your operator for the earliest slot, since sunrise gives the best light.
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