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Ninety seconds on the Chateau de Chillon
Chillon Castle stands on a rock in the lake close to the shore. It sits about four kilometres along the lakeside path from Montreux and two kilometres from Villeneuve, so walkers can reach it from both towns.
Trains on the S5 line reach Veytaux-Chillon, and the castle is a short walk from that station. Bus 201 also calls at the Chillon stop, which is right outside the castle, so the bus suits anyone coming from the lakeside towns.
From November to February the castle opens from ten in the morning to five in the evening, with the last entry at four. It is closed on 1 January and 25 December, and is open on every other day of the year.
Most visitors spend around one and a half to two hours in the castle. The route runs through the whole castle, so the time spent depends on how long a visitor lingers in the halls.
The castle asks visitors to book tickets online ahead of their visit, and entry is ticketed. Guided tours must be booked at least three working days in advance.
The lowest hall is vaulted and cut from the rock itself, and it gets light only through narrow slits. Black marble columns stand in the former feasting hall, and its windows look out over the lake.
April to September gives the longest visiting day, with the doors open at nine and the last admission at six in the evening. Since the keep comes last on the one-way route, an entry close to the last admission leaves little time for the upper floors.
Climbing from a dungeon cut into its island rock to the top of the keep, past Savoy banquet halls, you walk through a whole medieval castle standing in Lake Geneva.
The castle is close to a thousand years old and stands on stone pillars on a rock island just off the shore. Down at water level, the dungeon is a long vaulted hall lit only through narrow slits.
Its best-known prisoner, François Bonivard, became the hero of a poem by Byron. Look closely at the pillars: the name BYRON is cut into one of them and framed under a small pane of glass, and tradition holds that the poet carved it himself.
Upstairs, the old banqueting hall has black marble columns and windows over the lake. The hall beside it still stands on its original oak columns.
The Camera Domini, the duke's bedroom, carries murals of medieval animal symbols, with Saint George slaying the dragon over the mantelpiece. The Chapel of Saint George still has its medieval paintings, rare for a religious building in the canton, with Old Testament figures on the ceiling.
Two details are easy to walk past. The window recesses have stone seats where you can sit in the light off the water, and the latrines are a plank over a shaft that drops straight into the lake.
Chillon's route is self-guided and runs one way through 36 rooms, a spiral that always turns right, so you will not miss one. Pick up the free brochure and map at the ticket office, or hire the audio guide if you would rather listen.
It begins underground, in the vaults at water level, then climbs through the courtyards to the great halls, the Savoy bedrooms and the chapel. It ends on the narrow stairs up the keep, so do not come late: a late entry means rushing the halls at the top. Step out onto the small balcony off the banquet hall on the way for the view down the lake.
Wear shoes with grip, because the stone stairs and floors can be slippery, especially when it is damp. Come dressed for a building, not the beach: the castle turns away anyone in swimwear, topless or barefoot, which matters if you walk in along the shore on a hot day.
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