Bosphorus

What makes it special

Ottoman palaces stand along the water, Topkapı and Dolmabahçe among them. Dolmabahçe is the lavish one, with 285 rooms and 43 halls, and it was the seat of Ottoman government in the empire's last 60 years.

Along both shores stand yalı, the waterside mansions built right at the edge of the strait. The boat passes under the 15 July Martyrs Bridge, also known as the Bosphorus Bridge, the first ever built across it.

Further up, two fortresses face each other across the water. Rumelihisarı, the large castle on the European side, sits under the second bridge, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet. The much smaller Anadoluhisarı stands just opposite, on the Asian shore.

Visiting

A commuter ferry across the strait to Kadıköy is the shortest taste of the water. Boats leave Eminönü so often that you seldom wait more than about seven minutes.

The short Bosphorus tour, when it is running, takes about ninety minutes and passes both shores of the city.

The long tour takes the day. Board at Eminönü in the mid-morning; the boat calls at Beşiktaş, Kanlıca and Sarıyer, then ties up at Anadolu Kavağı for several hours. Walk up through the village to the castle on the hill, come back down to the village for a cold drink, and be on the pier for the sailing that brings you back to Eminönü in the late afternoon.

Guided or on your own

The municipal ferry operator, Şehir Hatları, runs both Bosphorus tours on its public boats. The public boats pass the same shores as private cruises.

Private tour boats sell their own separate tickets. Touts work the waterfront at Eminönü and Kabataş selling them. Walk past and buy only at the clearly signed official booths on the pier.

Tips

Board early if you want an outside seat. The deck seats are few and go first, and the enclosed lounge gets very hot.

Cover up on the open deck in summer, because a long day on the water can burn you even with sunscreen. In July, carry water up to the castle: the climb has no shade, and the cafés with cold drinks are back down in the village.