The Caribbean island that never built a beach economy, and kept the forest instead.
A week. The island is small enough to drive across in a morning and slow enough that nobody does: the roads follow the ridges, so forty kilometres can take two hours. Five days covers the Roseau valley, the south west coast and one long walk in the interior. Ten allows the north, the Kalinago Territory on the east coast and a second hard day on foot.
For anything outside Roseau, yes. Minibuses with green plates connect the villages and run to their own timetable, which suits residents and defeats a visitor working to a plan. Driving is on the left and a local permit is required, issued by the hire company at the desk. The roads are narrow and steep and mostly well surfaced, and the hazard is the blind bend rather than the condition.
February to April is the driest stretch and the most reliable for the interior. Hurricane season runs June to November with September its peak, and Maria came ashore on 18 September 2017. Some rain falls most days whatever the month, because the mountains make their own weather: the interior takes several times what the leeward coast does, and river crossings rise fast after it.
English is official and is used in government, schools and business. Alongside it Kwéyòl, a French-based creole, is widely spoken and has been actively revived since the 1980s after decades of official discouragement. It carries the Creole season around independence at the start of November. Place names across the island are French, a legacy of the century the two powers spent trading it between them.
The East Caribbean dollar, shared with seven other states and pegged to the United States dollar at a fixed rate, which keeps conversion to simple arithmetic. US dollars are widely accepted, though change tends to come back in local currency. Cards work in Roseau, the hotels and the larger supermarkets. Village shops, minibuses and trailhead guides expect cash.
Douglas-Charles on the north east coast takes almost every arrival and sits about an hour from Roseau. Canefield, fifteen minutes from the capital, has a short runway and handles light aircraft. No airline flies in direct from North America or Europe, so every visitor connects through another island, usually San Juan, Antigua, Barbados or Miami. A larger airport intended for wide-body aircraft is under construction at Wesley.
Ninety seconds on the island
Dominica is the Caribbean island the beach economy passed over, and the reason is geology. It is young, steep and volcanic; its sand is grey or black where there is any at all, and there was never a flat coastal shelf to lay a resort strip along. What it has instead is the middle.
That middle is mountain rainforest running the length of the island, and it is protected. Morne Trois Pitons National Park was inscribed by UNESCO in 1997, the first natural World Heritage Site in the Eastern Caribbean, and most of what a visitor comes for is inside it or on the road to it.
The island is also the last ground the Kalinago held. Every other Carib community in the Lesser Antilles was killed, deported or absorbed into somebody else’s population; here about three thousand seven hundred acres on the east coast were set aside in 1903, and the community on them still elects its own chief.
What all of it costs is effort. The roads are slow, the best of the interior needs boots and a guide, and in September 2017 Hurricane Maria damaged something like nine tenths of the buildings on the island. What came back was rebuilt with better trailheads and a widened guide training programme, which is the one good thing to come out of it.
Pick how you want to travel. The towns, the things to do and the map all change with it.
Two histories run alongside each other here and neither cancelled the other out. On the east coast the Kalinago hold ground that has been theirs since 1903 and elect a chief to speak for it. Salybia is its main village, and L’Escalier Tete Chien, a lava dyke climbing out of the sea in blocks, is the landmark its origin story is built on.
The colonial half is written in stone on the leeward side. Portsmouth has Fort Shirley, a British garrison abandoned in 1854 and cut back out of the rainforest from the 1980s, where a mutiny in 1802 won African soldiers full military rights. Roseau keeps the French grid, the market square and a botanic garden planted in 1891.
Water is the organising fact here. Rivers come off the central ridge in every direction and drop through the forest in stages, so the island’s set piece is not a view but a waterfall, and there are enough of them that villages are known by which one they hold. Trafalgar has two of them side by side.
Above the falls sit the crater lakes and the geothermal ground. Boeri Lake fills an old vent at about eight hundred and fifty metres, the sulphur fields at Wotten Waven steam in people’s gardens, and Colihaut looks up at Morne Diablotins, which at 1,447 metres is the second highest mountain in the Lesser Antilles.
The measure on this island is a day, a guide or a riverbed. Laudat is where the hardest of it begins: eight hours on foot over Morne Nicholls and across the vented ground of the Valley of Desolation to stand above the Boiling Lake, which no path shortens and no platform overlooks.
In the south east the rivers are themselves the route. Victoria Falls above Delices and Sari-Sari above La Plaine are reached by wading up the riverbed, because neither has a path, and both are called off when the water comes up. Vieille Case keeps the least walked of them, in ravines at the northern end.
Sand is the thing this island does not have much of, and where it exists it is usually grey or black. The north east is the exception. The beaches around Calibishie are golden and sheltered by a reef offshore, and Pointe Baptiste stands over them on red sandstone cliffs that belong to no other part of Dominica.
West of the ridge the attraction moves underwater. Gas bubbles up through the seabed at Champagne Reef off Pointe Michel, and the tombolo at Scotts Head carries the road out to the southern tip with Atlantic swell on one side and flat Caribbean water on the other. Mero and Toucari are where the swimming is easiest.
There is no resort strip, and that shapes everything above it. The places worth naming are small, built into a hillside or a cliff, and they are sold on what surrounds them: forest on one side and deep water on the other.
Portsmouth holds both ends of the range: Secret Bay on a headland north of the town, ranked repeatedly among the best in the Caribbean, and the Cabrits resort on Douglas Bay, the island’s largest and its first internationally branded five star property. Soufriere has Jungle Bay above the crater bay, Rosalie a river-mouth eco resort on the Atlantic side, and Trafalgar the garden inn beside the falls.
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