Things to do
5-
Ksar of Aït Benhaddou
Stacked earth houses, kasbahs and a granary at the summit make up this Unesco listed ksar, where a few families still live. Lanes climb from the river crossing to the top for a view over the Ounila valley. Walking the lanes is free, though owners ask a fee to enter individual houses. Early morning and late afternoon avoid the midday tour groups.
-
Anmiter
Halfway up the Ounila valley, an old earth ksar and kasbah stand above irrigated fields and walnut trees. Lanes between the houses can be walked with a villager as guide. Most travellers pass on the road between Telouet and the ksar, so a stop here is quiet.
-
Ounila Valley
Red earth cliffs, green terraces and crumbling ksour line the river that runs down from Telouet to the ksar. A road follows the valley through Anmiter and Tamdaght, with stops for short walks into the gardens. A hired car or driver suits the trip. Rain on the High Atlas can make the fords impassable.
-
Tamdaght Kasbah
Upstream in the Ounila valley, a Glaoui kasbah with partly ruined towers stands above the riverbed among almond and palm gardens. The track from the ksar runs a few kilometres north and suits a walk, a bicycle or a car. Interior access depends on the caretaker being there, and the gardens and river below can be walked freely.
-
Telouet Kasbah
Painted cedar ceilings, zellige and carved stucco survive in the reception rooms of the Glaoui palace, while the rest of the complex slowly returns to earth around them. The Glaoui family ruled much of the south from here in the early twentieth century. Entry is ticketed, with a caretaker showing the restored rooms. The mountain road leaves the N9 near the Tizi n'Tichka pass.
