Things to do
6-
Kasbah du Glaoui
On a rise above the centre, the crumbling walls of a Glaoui-era kasbah look out over the rooftops and the oasis. The interior is not restored, so the visit is a walk around the outside. Lanes from the main road climb to it in a few minutes. The view runs up the valley toward the mouth of the Todra Gorge.
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Ksar Afanour
A footpath crosses the palm gardens in about half an hour to this older ksar, now mostly in ruins. Near its entrance, the restored Ikelane mosque and madrasa open to visitors of any faith. Shade under the palms makes the walk pleasant even in warm months. Shoulders and knees should be covered inside the mosque.
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Ksar Aït el Haj Ali
Earth houses and covered lanes make up the old ksar at the foot of the hill, with the former Jewish quarter of the mellah at its centre. Restoration work has been under way here for over a decade. A local guide explains the layout and knows which houses can be entered.
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Tamtattouchte
Upstream beyond the narrowest part of the gorge, the valley opens out at this Berber village of earth houses and terraced fields. A walk up the riverbed and the road from the gorge takes most of a day, or a grand taxi covers it in under an hour. Treks onward to the high plateaus start here. The road continues north to Aït Hani and the Imilchil plateau.
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Todra Gorge
Limestone walls close to a slot barely wide enough for the road and the river at the narrow end of this canyon near Tinghir, rising hundreds of metres on either side. Climbers work the routes on the shaded face. Coaches stop at midday and the floor gets busy, so early morning holds the cold air and the quiet.
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Todra Palmery
Date palms, olive trees and small walled plots of wheat and alfalfa line the river between the town and the gorge. Irrigation channels split the gardens, and footpaths follow them past the ksour. A pullout on the gorge road looks over the green belt. Paths cross private fields, so walking with a local guide avoids trespassing.
