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The Venetian harbour at Rethymno, a row of pastel houses above waterfront cafe parasols and small fishing boats moored along the quay
The Venetian harbour · Rethymno, on the north coast of Crete
Town brief · 35.3700°N 24.4760°E

Rethymno

Take a room in Rethymno's Old Town and the Venetian lanes, the Fortezza and the causeway out to the old lighthouse are all on foot, with Arkadi Monastery and the pottery village of Margarites a short drive inland.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Rethymno

How long
One to two daysfor the Old Town, the Fortezza and the harbour
Getting around
Walk the Old Towna car only for the trips beyond town
When
May, June, September, early OctoberJuly and August are hotter, busier and booked up
Language
Greekkalimera for good morning, efharisto for thank you
Money
The eurodraw cash in town, as ATMs thin out in the villages
Airports
Chania CHQ or Heraklion HERthe town sits almost midway between the two
How long

How many days do you need in Rethymno?

One to two days cover the Old Town, the Fortezza and the harbour, and the alleys go quiet in the evening once the day visitors have left. Arkadi Monastery, Melidoni Cave, the potters of Margarites and the beach at Preveli are trips out of town on top of that.

Getting around

How do the buses from Rethymno work?

KTEL coaches link Rethymno with Chania about every hour, a journey of about 73 minutes, and with Heraklion many times a day, from early morning to evening, in about 90 minutes. They also run to Plakias on the south coast. Timetables change with the season, school terms and holidays, so the day's times are worth checking before a trip out.

When

When is the best time to visit Rethymno?

May, June, September and early October. Winter is quieter and suits walks in the Old Town, the museums and the archaeological sites; a light jacket and shoes that cope with rain are the kit for it. In July and August hotels, hire cars and the popular restaurants fill quickly, so they are booked well ahead.

Language

What language is spoken in Rethymno?

Greek is the official language. English is widely spoken in hotels, restaurants, shops, on tours and in most places visitors go. Parakalo means please and is also the reply to thanks.

Money

Are cards accepted in Rethymno?

Cards are common in hotels, restaurants, supermarkets and the larger shops. Small tavernas, market stalls, village cafes, beach parking and taxis are less reliable, and tips are easier in cash. Withdrawing euros from an ATM with a debit card is simpler than using exchange booths.

Airports

How do you get from Heraklion airport to Rethymno?

There is no direct bus: the city bus runs to Heraklion's Central Bus Station A in about 20 minutes, and a second ticket there covers the coach to Rethymno, about 90 minutes more. A taxi from the rank takes about 70 minutes, with the fare agreed before setting off.

Take a room in the Old Town for the lanes and the harbour at your door, or in the hotels along the beach that starts just east of it for sand. The beach is broad and busy, with few quiet corners, and its far end is a long walk from the old quarter.

In July and August, avoid the middle of the day in the Old Town lanes, when they are at their hottest and most crowded, and keep the Fortezza for the evening. A weekly market fills the new marina on Thursday mornings and the bus station on Saturday mornings, packing up around 14:00.

Some restaurants on the Venetian harbour send staff out to steer you to a table, so decide where to eat before you walk the quay. The small beach beside the harbour is closed to swimmers in summer. The Neratze Mosque hosts events and is closed to visitors.

A car makes the days out easy: Arkadi Monastery is about 23 minutes' drive and Preveli Beach about 43 minutes. Buses reach Arkadi Monastery and Preveli Monastery three times a day, with a change on the way.

From Chania airport, buses to Rethymno leave from the stop across from Departures, on the east side of the terminal, and you buy the ticket from the driver. Carry euro cash for the fare, since local buses are one of the places that need it. If you drive, ask your hotel where to leave the car, then park on the edge of the centre and walk in.

Things to do

11
  1. Arkadi Monastery

    Arkadi Monastery

    Monastery · 1.5 hr

    A fortified monastery on a plateau in the hills south-east of town, with a carved Venetian church front facing its courtyard. In 1866, besieged by Ottoman troops, the defenders blew up the gunpowder store, and the roofless room where it happened can still be entered. A small museum holds icons and relics of the siege. Entry is ticketed, and modest dress is expected.

  2. Kourtaliotiko Gorge

    Kourtaliotiko Gorge

    Canyon

    Pull off the road to Plakias and a stone stairway takes you down to springs that run all year, a waterfall and the chapel of Agios Nikolaos at the foot of the cliffs.

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  3. Preveli Beach

    Preveli Beach

    Beach

    A freshwater lagoon sits behind Preveli beach, fed by a river that leaves its gorge through wild Cretan date palms. You can walk its banks inland, then cross the sand to swim in the Libyan Sea.

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  4. Archaeological Museum

    Museum · 1 hr

    Now housed in the restored Venetian church of Saint Francis in the old town, a single tall nave filled with finds from the Rethymno region. Cases follow the story from Neolithic tools through painted Minoan clay coffins to Roman marble statues. It is a short visit that pairs well with the Fortezza nearby, and entry is ticketed.

  5. Fortezza of Rethymno

    Fortress · 1.5 hr

    Venetian walls enclose the whole hill above the old town, built in the late sixteenth century after pirate raids. Inside, the ground is open and grassy, with a domed Ottoman mosque, a small church, cisterns and the ruins of barracks. The ramparts give the widest view over the harbour and the town roofs. Entry is ticketed, with long summer hours and a shorter winter day.

  6. Margarites

    Village · 2 hr

    Margarites is Crete's pottery village, a drive of 24 to 40 minutes from Rethymno on well-kept roads, and its workshops make pottery. The public bus usually runs once a day and takes about 50 minutes, so a car makes the visit easier. April to May and September to October are quieter than August.

  7. Melidoni Cave

    Landmark · 1.5 hr

    Melidoni Cave lies inland from Rethymno, and visits are guided, lasting about 45 minutes. Opening hours change between summer and winter, when the cave opens on fewer days. Call the cave before the drive out to check the day's times and book a place.

  8. Preveli

    Monastery · 30 min

    The monastery of Preveli stands on a terrace high above the Libyan Sea, on the south coast directly across the island from Rethymno. Its church, courtyard fountain and small museum of icons look straight out to open water. During the Second World War the monks hid Allied soldiers here before their evacuation by submarine. Shoulders and knees must be covered.

  9. Rethymno Lighthouse

    Landmark · 1 hr

    The old lighthouse stands at the end of the causeway that closes Rethymno's small Venetian harbour, and the walk out along the causeway and back takes in both. The harbour is at its best in the evening, with the boats moored, the quay lit and the town rising behind.

  10. Rimondi Fountain

    Monument

    A Venetian fountain of 1626 at the heart of the old town, where water still runs from three carved lion heads between Corinthian columns. It stands at the corner of a small square lined with cafés under plane trees. The lanes leading south from here hold most of the old town's wooden Ottoman balconies, so it makes a natural starting point for a walk.

  11. Souliou Street

    Landmark · 30 min

    Souliou Street is the lane in Rethymno's Old Town for local craft, lined with the workshops and small shops of the town's artisans. Only delivery vans may enter the Old Town lanes, so the street is reached on foot from the car parks on the edge of the centre.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap
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Sources 1

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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