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The white volcanic rock of Sarakiniko on Milos, sloping smooth and bare into clear blue sea
Sarakiniko on the north coast · bare white rock with almost no shade
Town brief · 36.7262°N 24.4466°E

Milos

Milos has more than seventy beaches, and in summer the wind decides which coast is fit for a swim. Stay on the island and you take the white rock of Sarakiniko on a calm day and the south-coast sand when the north blows.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Milos

How long
Three to five daysthe right length for a first visit to the island
Base
Adamas, the portthe ferries dock, the buses leave and the car hire waits
Getting around
An ATV or a 4x4an ordinary car will not manage some of the dirt tracks
When
SeptemberJune and early October come next
Money
The eurothe bus and some small family businesses take cash only
Airports
Milos MLOfive kilometres south-east of Adamas, with flights from Athens only
How long

How many days do you need on Milos?

Three to five days suits a first visit. That covers the north-coast rock at Sarakiniko, a boat day to Kleftiko, a south-coast beach and an evening in Plaka.

Base

Where is the best place to stay on Milos?

Adamas is the most practical base without a vehicle, since the ferries, buses and day cruises all start there. Plaka suits a stay built around the evenings, high above the bay.

Getting around

Do you need a car on Milos?

Some form of transport is close to essential. Milos has a long network of dirt roads, and an ATV or a four-wheel drive reaches beaches that an ordinary car cannot. Scooters and quad bikes are the other common choice, and the cars on hire are small.

When

When is the best time to visit Milos?

September, with June and early October next. The meltemi, a dry northerly wind, blows mainly in July and August, and August is usually the windiest month. Late in the season, Kleftiko excursions taper off with no fixed last sailing, so a boat day then needs checking with the operators in Adamas before the rest of the trip is built around it.

Money

Do you need cash on Milos?

Some cash, in euros. Bus fares are paid in cash on board, and some small family-run businesses take nothing else. Adamas has branches of the major Greek banks with ATMs, and Pollonia has an ATM but no bank.

Airports

Which airport serves Milos?

Milos Airport, MLO, in the Zefyria area about 5 km south-east of Adamas. It takes direct flights from Athens only, about 40 minutes in the air.

A day on Milos goes to the coast, and the evening to Plaka, the hilltop village above the bay. Cars are banned from Plaka's lanes, so you park at the bottom of the hill and walk up, and in August the spaces are tight. The lanes are steep, so wear comfortable shoes, and climb to the Venetian castle at the top for the sunset.

Check the wind before you choose a beach. In summer the meltemi blows hard from the north and roughens the north coast by the afternoon: Sarakiniko becomes a viewpoint, and Papafragas and Plathiena are no place for a swim. On those days drive to the south coast, to Paleochori, Agia Kyriaki or Firiplaka under its banded cliffs.

Kleftiko's white cliffs and sea caves have no road, so the day boats are the way in. Book the boat early in summer, and for the start of your stay rather than the end, because wind cancels sailings. Wear closed shoes on the rocks, where vipers live, and take a hat and sun cream for the remote coves.

The bus keeps to paved roads, so the dirt-track beaches need your own wheels. Outside summer it drops to a few weekday runs, with none at all on Saturdays, Sundays or public holidays.

Pollonia, on the north-east tip, suits a base if you have your own wheels. Its small ferry takes you over to Kimolos for the day.

Ferries sail from Piraeus to Adamas every day of the year. The fast boats take about three to three and a half hours and the slowest close to eight, and a strong wind can now and then cancel a sailing, so leave a spare day before a flight home.

Things to do

24
  1. Kleftiko

    Kleftiko

    Other · 7 hr

    In clear blue water, tall white pillars and arches stand around your anchored boat, and you swim from the deck into the sea caves cut through them.

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  2. Sarakiniko Beach

    Sarakiniko Beach

    Beach · 2 hr

    You come for the swim between pale walls: a shallow inlet cut into white volcanic stone, with smooth ledges to lie on and higher rocks that some swimmers jump from.

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  3. Achivadolimni

    Beach · 3 hr

    Achivadolimni is the longest sandy beach on the island, set inside the sheltered Bay of Milos, the same bay as the port at Adamas, and reached on a paved road. The water stays shallow and clear for a long way out, so wading and swimming are easy over sand. Its place inside the bay keeps it calmer than the exposed north coast in summer.

  4. Agia Kyriaki

    Beach · 3 hr

    Fine sand and rows of sunbeds make Agia Kyriaki an easy beach day on the south coast, about fifteen minutes by road from Adamas. Shade is scarce in July and August, so a hat and a sunbed umbrella matter. This side of the island stays calmer than the north when the summer wind is up.

  5. Ancient theatre

    Ruins · 30 min

    Rows of white marble seats curve down a hillside facing the Bay of Milos, a Greek theatre rebuilt in Roman times. The famous Venus de Milo was found in a field nearby. A walk from Trypiti or the catacombs reaches it. Late afternoon light falls across the seats and the bay below.

  6. Archaeological Museum

    Museum · 30 min

    In a neoclassical building on the main square of Plaka, the collection runs from Neolithic obsidian blades to Bronze Age pottery from Phylakopi. A painted clay figure known as the Lady of Phylakopi is among the Bronze Age finds. A modern copy of the Venus de Milo stands in the first room. It is ticketed.

  7. Catacombs of Milos

    Archaeological Site · 30 min

    An early Christian burial complex cut into the soft rock below the village of Trypiti, with long galleries of arched tomb niches. A flight of steps leads down from the road. The site closes in mid-afternoon and on Tuesdays, so a morning visit is the safer plan.

  8. Firopotamos

    Beach · 1.5 hr

    A sheltered cove north of Plaka with a white chapel on the rocks, a handful of boathouses and calm, clear water over pebbles and sand. Snorkellers explore the rocky edges of the bay. There are no sunbeds and almost no shade, so umbrellas come from home or the hotel. Parking above the beach is limited in summer.

  9. Gerontas

    Beach · 2 hr

    Rock arches and clear water fill this small bay on the west coast of Milos. Getting there means a bumpy dirt track and then a short, steep path down to the shore, so an ATV or a four-wheel drive is the easier vehicle.

  10. Kastanas

    Beach · 2 hr

    On the remote east coast, Kastanas is a run of coloured pebbles broken into tiny coves, at the end of a dirt road. There are no facilities, so pack water, food and something for shade. The sun leaves the beach early in the day, which makes it a morning swim.

  11. Klima

    Village · 30 min

    A fishing village built at the water's edge below Plaka, made up of syrmata: boathouses with brightly painted doors on the ground floor and living quarters above. Fishermen once hauled their boats straight inside for the winter. Today several are let as rooms. The lane along the shore is a short walk, and swimming is from the rocks.

  12. Mandrakia

    Village · 1 hr

    Boathouses line the water at Mandrakia, a small fishing village where most of them are now let as holiday rentals. White rock formations frame the shore, and the swimming is from small spots in the rock, not from a beach. The boathouses are private rentals, so a visit here is a walk along the water and a swim.

  13. Milos Cove

    Hotel

    A beach-first base on Milos, on the sand at Agkali, for days spent by the water rather than in the villages.

  14. Milos Mining Museum

    Museum · 30 min

    Set in Adamas, the museum tells how the island's volcanic geology has been quarried since antiquity, from obsidian to the bentonite and perlite still mined today. Rock samples, miners' tools and old photographs fill the rooms. Short films explain how the coloured cliffs seen on boat trips came to be.

  15. Paleochori

    Beach · 3 hr

    A long sandy beach on the south coast, reached by asphalt all the way down. There is no natural shade, so bring a hat, sun cream and water for the day. When the summer wind roughens the north coast, this shore stays swimmable.

  16. Papafragas

    Beach · 1 hr

    A narrow channel of turquoise water running between white rock walls into the cliffs of the north coast, ending in a tiny beach under an arch. Rough steps lead down to it near Pollonia. The rock is slippery and there are no facilities. Swimming through to the open sea is possible only on calm days.

  17. Papikinou

    Beach · 2 hr

    Walking distance from the port of Adamas, Papikinou is a long beach where the water stays shallow well out from the sand. That makes it the practical choice for a day with small children. It needs no car, bus or quad bike, so it also suits a first afternoon off the ferry.

  18. Phylakopi

    Archaeological Site · 30 min

    A Bronze Age town on a low cliff above the north coast, which grew rich trading the island's obsidian across the Aegean. Low stone walls and house foundations mark the excavated quarters, part of them lost to the sea. Its pottery and figurines went to the museum at Plaka. The site lies close to the road from Adamas to Pollonia.

  19. Plaka

    Village · 1.5 hr

    The island's hilltop capital, a white village of narrow lanes and small squares on a rock high above the bay. Steps climb from the top of the village to the ruins of a Venetian castle and the church of Panagia Thalassitra, which looks out over the sunset. Cars stay in parking below. The lanes are busiest in the evening.

  20. Plathiena

    Beach · 1.5 hr

    At the end of an asphalt road down from Plaka, Plathiena is a small beach set among rock formations on the north coast. It faces north, so when the meltemi blows in summer the water turns rough and swimming stops. On those days the beaches of the south coast are the ones to drive to.

  21. Pollonia

    Village · 2 hr

    Tamarisks shade the shallow beach at Pollonia, a village on the north-east tip of Milos with tavernas along the back of the sand. The small ferry to Kimolos leaves from here and crosses the channel in about twenty minutes. From June to September the meltemi makes the beach choppy in the afternoon.

  22. Thiorichia

    Beach · 2 hr

    Below the ruins of an abandoned mining village, Thiorichia is a yellow beach on a lonely stretch of coast. The road in is very rough, so it takes an ATV or a four-wheel drive, a boat, or a walk of about two kilometres from where an ordinary car has to stop.

  23. Trypiti

    Village · 1 hr

    Trypiti is the smaller village beside Plaka, with sea views from the edge of its cliff. The Catacombs of Milos are cut into the rock below it, and a walk downhill leads on to the ancient theatre above the bay.

  24. Tsigrado

    Beach · 1.5 hr

    A narrow cleft in a sea cliff hides this small beach, reached on an easy dirt road and then a descent that finishes on a rope and a short ladder. Both hands are needed for the last part, so carry a backpack.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap

Dispatches

1
Milos Needs Four Nights, a Car and a Calm Day
Milos

Milos Needs Four Nights, a Car and a Calm Day

The coves of Milos are cut from volcanic rock the island still mines: white Sarakiniko, the boat-only caves of Kleftiko, an abandoned sulphur mine on the east coast, and boathouse villages below Plaka.

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Sources 1

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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