Ninety seconds on Cetinje Monastery
Before leaving the church, ask a priest to open the treasury rather than waiting to be offered it. The relics come out on request or for a group. On a quiet day, expect a wait.
Free to walk into, the church of the Nativity of the Virgin holds frescoes and the relics of Saint Peter of Cetinje, the monastery's own saint. The treasury is a separate room. A priest has to agree to take you in, and when he does he opens a jewelled chest made for a Russian emperor, which holds the hand and the fragment of the Cross. Groups get this as a matter of course; on your own, find someone in religious dress and ask. In the courtyard, lit candles go on a tray rather than inside, and the church shop sells candles and icons.
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