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Mexico

Things to do in Divisadero

Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Divisadero

A rim stop on the Chihuahua al Pacífico line in the Sierra Tarahumara, where three canyons meet in one view and the train halts long enough to empty. Hotels stand on the edge; there is no town behind them. Rarámuri women sell gorditas and pine-needle baskets by the rail. Nights on the rim are cold at over two thousand metres, while the canyon floor a vertical kilometre below stays subtropical. Staying a night is what makes the difference: the light on the rock at dawn, the walks along the rim before the next train.

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Things to do

5
  1. Cascada de Cusárare

    Cascada de Cusárare

    Waterfall · 2 hr

    Pine forest and a marked path of half an hour lead to a fall of about thirty metres dropping into a rock amphitheatre. Rarámuri vendors lay out baskets along the trail. Flow depends entirely on the rains: full from the summer storms into autumn, thin by spring. A mission church stands at the village above, its walls hung with colonial paintings.

  2. Batopilas

    Village · 8 hr

    One street along a river at the bottom of the gorge, a silver town that drew American capital in the mining decades. Getting there means a paved road of relentless switchbacks dropping well over a kilometre, several hours from the rim, and the climate at the end is subtropical: mangoes, citrus, heat. Ruins of the mine owner's hacienda face the town, and a domed church of unrecorded builders stands downstream.

  3. Copper Canyon

    Canyon · 8 hr

    Six major gorges cut by rivers through the Sierra Madre Occidental, a system wider than the Grand Canyon and deeper in parts, with the floor lying more than a kilometre and a half below the rim. Rarámuri families farm the terraces and shelter in rock overhangs. From Divisadero the rim view takes in three of the gorges at once; reaching the bottom takes days by road or on foot.

  4. Creel

    Village · 3 hr

    A logging and railway town at around two thousand three hundred metres, an hour south of the rim and the main base in the Sierra Tarahumara. Wooden storefronts face the tracks; a Rarámuri crafts centre sells baskets and carved figures. Day trips run out to rock formations shaped like mushrooms and frogs, a mission church and a lake. Winters are cold and clear; the rains reach the Sierra in late summer.

  5. Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre

    Other · 3 hr

    Built along the canyon rim beside the station, an adventure park whose cable car crosses to a pinnacle on the far side and back, hanging above a drop of hundreds of metres. A zip line circuit of seven stages descends the gorge, one of the longest strung anywhere, with a via ferrata and rim trails alongside. Weather closes the lines; winter mornings often start iced.

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Dispatches

1
Copper Canyon, Mexico: Bigger Than the Grand Canyon, by Rail
Divisadero

Copper Canyon, Mexico: Bigger Than the Grand Canyon, by Rail

Mexico's Copper Canyon is six gorges together about four times the size of the Grand Canyon and deeper, crossed by El Chepe, one of the last great passenger railways.

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