Things to do
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Cenote Azul
Terraces of clear pools in the jungle off the highway near Puerto Aventuras, shallow enough to stand in at the edges and deep by the far wall, where a low ledge serves as a jumping rock. Small fish nibble at ankles. Families fill it at weekends and by mid-morning in season; two similar cenotes sit within walking distance along the same road.
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Island
Cozumel
Diving made this island's name: walls and pinnacles along the western reefs, with a current strong enough that dives are done drifting. Ferries take about forty-five minutes from the pier. The sheltered west side holds the town and the cruise berths, while the windward east is open rock and empty beach, best circled by hired car. San Gervasio in the interior was a shrine to Ixchel.
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Quinta Avenida
Pedestrians took this street from cars decades ago, and it now runs several kilometres parallel to the sand: jewellery shops, taco counters, tequila tastings and touts working every doorway. The blocks south of the ferry pier are loudest, those beyond Calle Twenty-eight calmer, with wine bars and small hotels. Walk it in the evening when the heat drops and the dancers come out.
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Río Secreto
Wetsuit, helmet and headlamp go on before a guided walk and wade through a half-flooded cave, water at the waist and stalactites close overhead. Groups are small and the guide turns the lamps off for a minute of absolute dark. Cameras stay in the lockers. A nature reserve covers the surface above. Cool underground, which makes it the useful option in a heatwave.
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Xcaret Park
Underground rivers are the signature: a long float through limestone tunnels, wearing a life jacket, ending at the sea. Above them sit an aviary, a butterfly pavilion, turtle pens and reconstructed Maya buildings on the site of a real port. Biodegradable sunscreen only. Plan a full day and stay for the evening show, hundreds of dancers and musicians working through the regional repertoire.