Things to do
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Isla Espíritu Santo
Red volcanic cliffs drop into coves of white sand on this uninhabited island, protected as a national park and part of a World Heritage site. Day boats from La Paz stop at the beaches and at Los Islotes, a rock off the northern tip where snorkellers swim with a colony of sea lions. Landing requires a park wristband, which licensed operators supply. Trips depend on wind, and winter northerlies cancel some days.
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Playa Balandra
Shallow turquoise water spreads over a bay of sandbars and mangrove channels, wadeable knee-deep across much of it. A balanced rock called El Hongo stands at the southern edge, and a short hill trail looks down over the lagoon. Entry runs in two daily shifts with a capped number of visitors and a park wristband. There are no shops, so food and water come in.
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Catedral de Nuestra Señora
Twin brick towers face the Plaza Constitución on the site where a Jesuit mission stood until the eighteenth century. Inside, the nave is plain and cool, with a painted altar to the Virgin of Peace. Masses run through the day, so visits fit between services. The plaza in front holds a kiosk and the old government house, and is busiest on weekend evenings.
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El Mogote
Off this sand spit across the bay from town, juvenile whale sharks gather to feed on plankton from late autumn into spring. Swims are regulated by the federal park authority: only accredited boats go out, in fixed time slots, with a small group in the water at once and no touching.
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Malecón de La Paz
A seafront promenade on Paseo Álvaro Obregón runs along the bay for several kilometres, lined with palms, bronze sculptures and a pier. At sunset the paved path fills with walkers, cyclists and families buying ice cream from carts. Hotels and restaurants face it across the road, and pangas pull up on the sand below. Shade is sparse by day, so the evening is the time to walk it.
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Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia de Baja California Sur
Two floors on the peninsula's story, from the Pericú and Guaycura peoples through the Jesuit missions, pearl diving and the mining boom. Labels are mostly in Spanish. The museum is ticketed and stands a few blocks inland from the cathedral, so the walk from the waterfront is short.
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Playa El Tecolote
At the end of the road north past Balandra, a long open beach faces Isla Espíritu Santo across the channel. Unlike its neighbour it has palapa restaurants, kayak rental and room to spread out, and swimming is easy on calm days. Pangas leave from here for the island. Wind picks up in winter afternoons, when the channel turns choppy.
