Ninety seconds on Plav
A small lakeside town in the far east, under the northern walls of the Prokletije, with old stone kula towers and mosques around its centre. Plav Lake sits just below it and is calm enough for a swim in summer. Most visitors come for the mountains. The town has the guesthouses, the shops and the guides for walking the park's northern valleys, and the road on to Gusinje and the Grebaje valley takes about twenty minutes.
The Accursed Mountains along the Albanian border are the wildest range in the country, with the highest Montenegrin summit, Zla Kolata, on the frontier ridge. Plav and Gusinje are the bases. The trails are long and waymarking is patchy away from the main valleys, so hire a guide for the summits and never count on phone signal.
Every Montenegro town, place and dispatch, on one map.
The park is half the reason to walk out here.
The capital, and the arrival point for most flights into the country.
In spring, or the day after heavy rain, water spills over the whole weir and the drive is worth it.
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