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Porto Montenegro's marina and waterfront apartments seen from the bay, with the green slope of Vrmac behind
Porto Montenegro from the water · the old naval shipyard, now a marina
Town brief · 42.4304°N 18.6988°E

Tivat

Base yourself in Tivat and spend your days on the water: boats for the whole bay leave from the seafront, and the quiet sand of Luštica is a short drive away.

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Why you should go

Ninety seconds on Tivat

How long
Two nights, longer as a baseone for the town, one for a boat or a beach
Getting around
On foot, then bus or taxilocal buses run to Kotor through the Vrmac tunnel
When
June or Septemberwarm sea; July and August are the crowded weeks
The beaches
Concrete in town, sand on LušticaPlavi Horizonti is the best sand nearby
Money
The eurocarry cash for the green market
Airports
Tivat TIV, on the edge of townPodgorica TGD inland; Dubrovnik DBV over the border
How long

How many days do you need in Tivat?

Two nights covers the town and a day on the water: the first for the town on foot, the second for a boat trip on the bay or a beach day on Luštica. As a base for Kotor, Perast and Budva, allow four or five nights.

Getting around

How do you get around Tivat?

The centre, the seafront and Porto Montenegro are all walkable. Local buses run to Kotor through the Vrmac tunnel, and long-distance buses leave from a station about two kilometres from the centre, towards the airport. Luštica's beaches and the Solila reserve are easiest by car or taxi.

When

When is the best time to visit Tivat?

June or September, when the sea is warm and the busiest weeks are over or still to come. July and August bring the crowds and the longest queues at the Lepetane ferry. Tivat airport has far fewer flights in winter, so a winter trip often starts from Podgorica, which runs all year.

The beaches

Does Tivat have good beaches?

Not in the centre, where the town beaches are concrete platforms or pebble. The best sand is at Plavi Horizonti on the Luštica peninsula. Kalardovo, beside the airport, is the nearest sand to the town.

Money

What money does Tivat use?

The euro. Carry some cash for the green market and smaller cafés.

Airports

Where do you fly into for Tivat?

Tivat TIV is about 3.5 km south-east of the centre, a short taxi ride away. Podgorica TGD, inland, is the capital's airport, under two hours away by road. Dubrovnik DBV in Croatia is the other option, with direct buses to Tivat that can be slow at the border in summer.

Tivat suits a stay built around the water rather than around old stone. The Yugoslav navy's shipyard is now Porto Montenegro, a marina of superyachts, shops and restaurants. The small town centre lies a short walk east of it along the seafront.

Spend a morning on foot. The green market, the Buća-Luković gallery and the submarines at Porto Montenegro all lie within about a kilometre of each other, so none of them needs a taxi.

Keep the afternoons for the water. Kayaks and paddleboards can be hired in the centre, so a paddle along the shore needs no planning.

Sleep in the centre if you want to walk to the market, the boats and the restaurants. Porto Montenegro holds the town's grandest hotels, and the waterfront apartments of Donja Lastva, along the shore beyond the marina, are quieter.

For Herceg Novi and the west of the bay, take the car ferry from Lepetane, about five kilometres north of the centre, across the strait to Kamenari. Foot passengers ride free, and the crossing saves a long drive round the bay.

Things to do

12
  1. Porto Montenegro

    Waterfront · 2 hr

    Porto Montenegro's north end, past the superyachts, holds a Yugoslav navy submarine on the old dry dock that you can tour inside on the museum's guided walk. The naval museum beside it shows the shipyard that stood here before the marina.

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  2. Naval Heritage Collection

    Museum · 1 hr

    A natural halfway break with easy parking and shade; an hour, more if the submarines hold interest.

  3. Buća-Luković Museum and Gallery

    Museum · 30 min

    Look round the gallery in the fortified tower, then check the summer programme: concerts and plays are staged in the old garden on warm evenings.

  4. Plavi Horizonti

    Beach · 1.5 hr

    Drive about half an hour from Tivat to Luštica for the softest sand in the area, in water shallow enough for small children.

  5. Tivat City Market

    Market · 30 min

    Come in the morning and buy cheese and olives here for a picnic on the Island of Flowers or the Luštica beaches.

  6. Gornja Lastva

    Village · 2.5 hr

    Stone houses, many of them empty, cluster around St Mary's church on the slopes of Vrmac, with the whole Tivat bay below. The walk up from Donja Lastva is steep, mostly on a narrow road with no pavement, and takes about an hour. There is no café or shop, so carry water, and come on 15 August for the village feast.

  7. Island of Flowers

    Island · 2 hr

    Joined to the shore near the airport by a strip of sand and a short bridge, this islet of about 300 by 200 metres can be reached on foot. A small monastery of the Archangel Michael stands among palms and olive trees, and a beach runs around its edge. With a swim, it makes an easy half day.

  8. Kalardovo

    Beach · 2 hr

    Beside the end of the airport runway, this sandy beach has shallow, calm water that suits small children, and planes take off and land close by. A restaurant and a playground sit behind the sand. The bottom turns to soft mud in places, so bring water shoes.

  9. Pine Promenade

    Waterfront · 1 hr

    Palms and café terraces line the seafront walk that runs from the small town harbour towards Porto Montenegro. Excursion boats for the bay and for Kotor leave from the quay here. Walk it at sunset, when it is at its busiest, and use Belane beach at its edge for a quick swim.

  10. Solila Nature Reserve

    Park · 1.5 hr

    Beyond the airport, on the road to Luštica, old salt pans are now a wetland reserve of about 150 hectares. Flat paths run along the former embankments to two observation towers, and entry is free. Bring binoculars in spring or autumn: herons and egrets are regular, and flamingos turn up in some years.

  11. The Chedi Luštica Bay

    Hotel

    Choosing The Chedi over a hotel in Tivat itself puts you out on the Luštica peninsula, in a five-star resort set at the water's line with forest climbing behind it and a beach of its own.

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  12. Veliki Gradski Park

    Park · 30 min

    Planted from 1892, the park grew from trees and seeds that Austro-Hungarian naval captains brought home from their voyages: eucalyptus, palms, cedars and magnolias among them. It sits just behind the seafront, and on a hot afternoon it is the coolest place in the centre.

Basemap Meridian · data © OpenStreetMap

Dispatches

1
Where to Start on the Bay of Kotor
Kotor

Where to Start on the Bay of Kotor

A working order for the Bay of Kotor: up the 1,350 steps to San Giovanni before the ships are ashore, or the free Ladder of Kotor instead, then the Blue Line bus up to Perast for the boat that leaves whenever it fills.

Explore

More of Montenegro

Montenegro
Country

Montenegro

Every Montenegro town, place and dispatch, on one map.

Kotor
Town

Kotor

A fortified town at the head of the Bay of Kotor, wedged between the water and the near vertical wall of Mount Lovcen.

Church of St Luke
Church · Kotor

Church of St Luke

Perast
Town

Perast

A single baroque street facing the narrows of the bay, built on the wealth of sea captains who once sailed for Venice.

Bay of Kotor
Landmark · Kotor

Bay of Kotor

Six medieval towns sit on the shores of this one bay, and a single loop by road and ferry runs past most of them.

Sources 1

The official pages this guide was checked against.

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