Things to do
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Litomyšl Castle
Thousands of sgraffito panels, no two alike, cover the arcaded walls of this Renaissance chateau, a UNESCO site since 1999. Guided tours cover the Thurn Taxis rooms, the baroque theatre with its original stage scenery, and the kitchen and tower. A free interactive exhibition explains the listing. Tours run from April to November, on fewer days in spring and autumn.
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Monastery Gardens
Terraced below the Piarist church and the chateau hill, these restored gardens hold fountains, lawns and bronze figures by the sculptor Olbram Zoubek. Paths link the upper town to the river in a few minutes. Summer concerts use the open stage. The gardens are free and open daily from early morning into the evening.
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Portmoneum
Every wall, ceiling and door of this small house was painted by the artist Josef Váchal for its owner, the collector Josef Portman, with demons, saints and visions. Rooms are tight, so visits run in small groups. It opens at weekends in April and October and Tuesday to Sunday from May to September, closing for an hour at lunch.
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Smetana Square
Half a kilometre of arcaded Renaissance and baroque houses line this long market square, with the House at the Knights and its carved stone figures halfway along. Cafés spill under the arcades, and the town hall tower stands at the upper end. A statue of Smetana watches over the lower end.
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Smetana's Birthplace
In the former chateau brewery, the rooms where Bedřich Smetana was born in 1824 hold a small exhibition on the composer's family and early life. His father ran the brewery for the estate. It sits at the foot of the chateau courtyard, so it fits before or after a chateau tour.
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Toulovcovy maštale
Sandstone gullies and rock walls hide in the forest near Proseč, a quiet rock town with marked trails, lookouts and a small lookout tower. Legend makes it the stable of the robber Toulovec. Circuits of two to three hours start from the car park at Maštale. Paths are free and unstaffed, with no services on the trail.
