Things to do
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Bran Castle
Queen Marie's furnished rooms open off narrow stairs around a small courtyard on top of the rock, and an hour covers them. Book the first slot online, before the spiral stairs jam in late morning. Bram Stoker never came to Romania; the rooms tell the story of the royal household that lived here.
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Bran Customs House
Across the main road from the castle, the restored buildings of the old customs post on the pass now hold the Bran National Museum, which moved out of the castle in 2006. It is a short visit and seldom busy. The red-marked trail up to Măgura starts in front of it.
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Bran Village Museum
Eighteen farmhouses, barns and workshops from the Bran valley stand on the slope below the castle, rebuilt here as an open-air museum, with the valley's water-powered mills and fulling works among them. Half an hour covers it. It makes a calm stop after the crowds inside the castle.
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Bats Cave
Bring a headlamp: this cave in Peștera village, a short drive west of Bran, has no lights, no walkway and a floor of wet clay and guano. Known locally as Peștera Liliecilor, it runs a few hundred metres into cold, damp limestone chambers where bats roost. Pack a warm layer and old shoes, and go in daylight so the path to the entrance is easy to find.
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Conacul Törzburg
Every room in this guesthouse across the road from the castle looks at it, and the front terrace faces its walls. A night here means being at the gate when it opens, ahead of the coaches from Brașov. The kitchen cooks Romanian and Turkish dishes.
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Măgura
Walk up from Bran on the red-marked trail, about eight kilometres and three to four hours with a steep start, or drive the dirt road in from Moieciu de Jos. The village is scattered over open hay meadows at around a thousand metres, facing the limestone wall of Piatra Craiului. Stay a night in one of its guesthouses to see the ridge in the early light.
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Rucăr-Bran Pass
Drive south from Bran through hay meadows and scattered shepherd farms towards Fundata, on the road that runs on to Câmpulung. Pull over at the top of the pass, with the Bucegi on one side and the limestone ridge of Piatra Craiului on the other.