Things to do
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Cala Jugadora
Tucked into the north side of Cap de Creus, this cove has clear, deep water and a shore of pebbles and rock with no facilities at all. Swimmers and snorkellers come for the visibility. Bring water, shoes for the stones and something for shade, and plan to carry out every piece of rubbish.
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Cap de Creus
Wind-carved schist runs down to the sea at the eastern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, inside a natural park with a lighthouse at the end of the road. Walkers follow the coastal path from Cadaqués past small coves; the light is at its best late in the afternoon. Shade is almost absent, so carry water and a hat, and expect strong tramontane wind on some days.
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Church of Santa Maria
White walls above the old town mark the church that the lanes all climb towards. Inside, a carved and gilded Baroque altarpiece fills the wall behind the altar. The terrace outside gives a view over the rooftops and the bay. Cobbles on the way up are smooth and steep, so shoes with grip help after rain.
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El Port de la Selva
Across the cape on the north coast, this fishing town has a working harbour, a long seafront and a quieter feel than Cadaqués. It makes the natural lunch stop on a day spent at Sant Pere de Rodes, whose road starts just above the town. Fresh fish comes in at the harbour, and the beaches suit families with small children.
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Portlligat
Over the hill from Cadaqués, a small sheltered bay holds fishing boats, a pebble shore and Dalí's house at the water's edge. The walk from the centre takes about twenty minutes on a quiet road. Morning is calm, and the bay makes a good start for kayaks heading north towards Cap de Creus.
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Salvador Dalí House in Portlligat
Fishermen's huts joined into one rambling home make up the house where Dalí lived and worked, with his studio, a library, the egg on the roof and an olive grove above the bay. Visits run in small groups on a fixed time slot, so tickets must be booked ahead. Allow about an hour inside, plus the walk over from Cadaqués.
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Sant Pere de Rodes
Perched high on the slopes of the Verdera range, this Romanesque monastery looks down over El Port de la Selva and the coast towards France. A cloister, a tall bell tower and a vaulted church make up the visit, and the ruined castle of Sant Salvador sits on the ridge above. The road up is narrow and winding; allow two hours for the site and the view.
