Things to do
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Basilica of Covadonga
Pink limestone gives the neo-Romanesque basilica its colour against the green slopes of the valley. It stands on a terrace above the sanctuary and the shuttle bus to the lakes stops below it. An hour covers the church, the esplanade and the walk across to the cave shrine. Morning is quieter, before the coach groups arrive from the coast.
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Cueva del Buxu
Engraved and painted animals from the Palaeolithic, including deer and horses, line the walls of this small cave a few kilometres from the town. Visits are in very small groups with a guide, so book well ahead. The cave is damp and the passage is low in places. It suits visitors with an interest in prehistoric art more than young children.
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Lakes of Covadonga
Two glacial lakes, Enol and Ercina, sit high above Covadonga on open pasture grazed by cows and horses. A circular walk links them with the old mining area and the viewpoints. On regulated-access days the shuttle bus from Cangas de Onís station runs every half hour, and the last bus up leaves in the late afternoon. Cloud often covers the lakes, so check the webcams before going.
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Parador de Cangas de Onís
Housed in the former monastery of San Pedro de Villanueva on the bank of the Sella, the parador keeps a Romanesque church and cloister beside its guest rooms. It sits just outside the town, so a car or taxi helps for dinner in the centre. Rooms facing the river are quieter. Book ahead for summer and the August canoe race weekend.
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Picos de Europa National Park
Limestone peaks, deep gorges and high summer pastures make up the park, which spreads across Asturias, Cantabria and León. From Cangas de Onís the western massif, with the lakes and the Cares gorge, is the closest part. Weather changes fast at altitude, so carry a layer and water even in July. Marked routes run from easy lake circuits to multi-day hut traverses.
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Roman Bridge
Medieval in fact despite its name, the steep humpbacked bridge crosses the Sella at the edge of the town centre, with a copy of the Victory Cross hanging under its central arch. It takes a few minutes to cross and photograph. Evening light from the riverbank is best, and the cider houses on the main street are a short walk away.
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Ruta del Cares
Carved into the walls of the Cares gorge, the path runs between Poncebos in Asturias and Caín in León, often barely a metre and a half wide with sheer drops beside it. The return walk covers 22 kilometres and takes more than five hours. Start early from Poncebos, carry water, and check for closures after rockfall before setting out.
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Santa Cueva de Covadonga
Cut into the cliff above a pool fed by a waterfall, the cave chapel holds the small statue of the Virgin known across Asturias as La Santina. A tunnel and stairs lead in from the sanctuary. Visitors come to make a wish at the spring below, where one of the seven spouts is said to bring marriage. The chapel is small and fills quickly when a coach group arrives.
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Sella River Descent
Kayak hire firms in Arriondas send paddlers downstream on the Sella in canoes, with a van to bring them back at the end. The river is gentle enough for beginners and families, with shingle beaches for a picnic stop. Wear clothes that can get wet and bring a dry bag. The international canoe race in early August fills the town and every hire firm.
