Things to do
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Balcón de Europa
Jutting out over the sea at the end of the main promenade, this palm-lined terrace looks along the cliffs and coves in both directions. Street musicians and ice cream stands keep it busy into the night. Come at sunrise or after dinner for space at the railings; steps down either side lead to the small beaches of Calahonda and El Salón.
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Caves of Nerja
Stalactite halls open up beneath the hills at Maro, a short drive east of the town, and a walkway leads through the largest chambers, including a column counted among the tallest known. Book a timed ticket online to skip the queue. Last entry comes an hour before closing, and the caves shut on 1 and 6 January, 15 May and Christmas Day.
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Cliffs of Maro-Cerro Gordo
Protected cliffs run east from Maro toward La Herradura, with hidden coves, old watchtowers and seabed meadows for snorkelling. Kayak trips leave from Maro beach and paddle past waterfalls dropping into the sea. Some coves can only be reached on foot down steep paths. Calm mornings give the clearest water, and the afternoon breeze often roughens it.
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Eagle Aqueduct
Four tiers of brick arches carry an old irrigation channel across a ravine just east of Maro, topped by a small spire with a weathervane. It was built to water the sugar cane that once covered this coast. The best view is from the lay-by on the old coast road toward the caves, and a stop takes a few minutes.
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Frigiliana
Whitewashed lanes climb a hillside about seven kilometres inland, stepped, cobbled and hung with pots of geraniums. Painted tiles along the old Moorish quarter tell the village story street by street. Midday in summer brings tour coaches and heat; late afternoon is cooler and quieter. Parking at the top of the village is limited, and a local bus runs from Nerja.
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Playa de Burriana
East of the centre, this long beach of grey sand and shingle is the town's main swimming beach, with sunbeds, kayak hire and a row of chiringuitos grilling sardines on spits. A steep walk down from the Parador area takes about twenty minutes from the Balcón. In August the sand fills by late morning, so claim a spot early.
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Playa de Calahonda
Tucked into the rocks directly below the Balcón de Europa, this tiny cove has fishing boats pulled up on the sand and whitewashed houses stacked above it. A passage of steps from the promenade leads down. It is pretty more than roomy, so swim here early and move on to a larger beach once it fills.
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Playa de Maro
Clear, calm water over pebbles makes this cove below the hamlet of Maro the pick for snorkelling and kayaking along the cliffs, and kayak trips toward the Cerro Gordo coves set off from its sand. A steep lane leads down from the village, and parking near the bottom is scarce in summer, so leave the car in Maro and walk down.
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Río Chíllar
Wading upstream is the whole point of this river walk, which follows a shallow stream into a narrowing limestone gorge north of town, ending at the slot known as the Cahorros. Allow most of a day for the return. Wear shoes that can get soaked and start early in summer. After heavy rain the water rises fast, so skip it in storms.
