Things to do
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Benirràs
Sunday evenings bring drummers to this north coast cove, who play the sun down behind a rock islet offshore. On other days it is a quieter bay with clear water, kayaks for hire and a couple of beach restaurants. Parking is limited and the road down is narrow and winding, so arrive well before sunset on a summer Sunday.
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Cala Comte
Shallow water over sand turns several shades of turquoise along this run of small beaches and rock shelves on the west coast near Sant Antoni. It faces the sunset, and the evening crowd arrives for that. Come before eleven in summer, because the parking above the beach fills fast, and bring water shoes for the rocks between the sandy stretches.
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Cala d'Hort
Facing Es Vedrà across a narrow channel, this southwest cove has coarse sand, clear water and fish restaurants right at the shore. The view is the reason to come, and the light is best in the hour before sunset. The approach road is narrow and the parking small, so arrive early in summer or come late in the day for the evening.
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Cala Salada
Pine woods run down to the water at this cove north of Sant Antoni, with a sandy beach and a smaller neighbour, Saladeta, reached over the rocks. The water is clear and calm, good for snorkelling off the rocks. Road access is tightly controlled in summer, the car park at the top is small, and the walk back up is steep.
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Dalt Vila
Walls from the sixteenth century still ring the upper town of Ibiza Town, and the lanes climb inside them to the cathedral and a terrace over the port and Formentera. The whole quarter is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Go in the late afternoon, when the stone cools and the light turns gold, and wear shoes with grip: the cobbles are steep and polished.
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Es Vedrà
Rising almost straight out of the sea off the southwest coast, this limestone islet is the shape on most Ibiza postcards. It is a protected reserve and landing on it is not allowed, so the islet is seen from Cala d'Hort, from the cliff path to the old watchtower above it, or from a boat. The cliff path is unfenced and loose underfoot, so go in daylight.
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Formentera
Ferries leave Ibiza Town port for this flat, quieter island throughout the day, and the crossing is short enough for a day trip. Hire a bike or a scooter at La Savina harbour and ride to Ses Illetes, a sandbar with Caribbean-coloured water on both sides. Take an early boat out: return sailings in the evening are the busiest of the day.
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Las Dalias Hippy Market
Stalls of jewellery, linen, leather and island crafts fill the gardens of Las Dalias on the road at Sant Carles every Saturday. The market began in the hippy years and still has that feel, with live music and food stands among the pines. Arrive in the morning before the heat and the coach parties.
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Necropolis of Puig des Molins
Thousands of rock-cut tombs riddle this hillside just outside the walls of Ibiza Town, a Phoenician and Punic burial ground used for centuries. A small museum shows the finds, from terracotta figures to amulets, and a path leads past open shaft graves. It is part of the island's UNESCO listing, and an hour covers it well, best in the cooler morning.
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Portinatx
Three small sandy coves sit inside this sheltered bay at the northern tip of the island, with shallow water and pine-covered headlands. It is a quiet family resort, far from the club scene. The cliff walk to the lighthouse of Punta des Moscarter starts nearby. Expect a long drive to the south coast and fewer buses outside the summer months.
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Puig de Missa
Above Santa Eulària des Riu, a low hill carries a whitewashed fortified church with a deep arched porch and a cluster of old houses. The church was built to double as a refuge from pirate raids, which explains its thick walls and tower. Walk up from the town centre in the late afternoon for the view over the river, the town and the coast.
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Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera
Inland in the middle of the island, this village is a white church, a pedestrian square and a ring of cafés, delis and small galleries. It makes a good lunch stop between coasts and a change of pace from the beaches. The square is liveliest in the morning and early evening, and the village stays open through winter, when much of the coast closes.
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Ses Salines Natural Park
Salt pans, dunes, juniper woods and two long beaches, Ses Salines and Es Cavallet, make up this park on the southern tip of Ibiza near the airport. The protected seagrass beneath the water is what keeps it so clear. Walk the tracks around the salt flats for the birdlife, then swim; in summer the beaches are busiest from midday, so mornings are calmer.
