Things to do
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Alcázar of Segovia
Perched on the rock where two rivers meet, the Alcázar closes the old town to the west, its halls leading out to a terrace over the valley. The Tower of Juan II climbs 152 spiral steps to the roof; it has no step-free access and under-16s may not go up unaccompanied. Tickets are strongly advised in advance on busy days, and the last entry is 30 minutes before closing.
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Aqueduct of Segovia
Granite blocks laid without mortar carry the Roman aqueduct across Plaza del Azoguejo, at its highest about 28 metres above the square. Walk beside the arches to see the stonework at eye level, then climb the steps next to it towards the old town for the view down along its length. Come in the early morning or after dark, when it is floodlit and the coach groups have gone.
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Casa de los Picos
Hundreds of pointed granite studs cover the facade of this house on Calle Juan Bravo, the walk between the aqueduct and Plaza Mayor. Today it holds a school of art and design, and the courtyard and exhibition rooms open when shows are on. Most visitors stop for the facade alone, which takes a few minutes and photographs best in the low light of late afternoon.
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Casa-Museo Antonio Machado
Poet Antonio Machado rented a room in this modest boarding house while he taught French in Segovia, and the room is kept with his furniture, stove and belongings. Visits are guided, short and in small groups at set times. The house sits on a quiet lane a few minutes on foot from Plaza Mayor, and the visit fits easily between the cathedral and the walls.
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Church of Vera Cruz
Twelve sides give the Romanesque church of Vera Cruz its shape, with a two-storey chamber at its centre that visitors can climb into. It stands alone outside the walls on the far side of the Eresma valley, a walk downhill from the Alcázar, and its bell tower gives a clear view of the castle on its rock. Opening hours are short, so check them before walking out.
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Jewish Quarter
South of the cathedral, a few narrow streets run above the city wall through the old Jewish quarter. The church of the Corpus Christi convent occupies the former main synagogue, and a small interpretation centre explains the layout of the streets. Follow the lanes down to the Puerta de San Andrés for a walk along the walls and a view across the valley to the hillside of the old Jewish cemetery.
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Monastery of El Parral
Hieronymite monks still live at the monastery of El Parral, in the valley below the town walls on the far bank of the Eresma. A monk usually leads the short guided visits of the church and cloister, which run at set times, so plan the walk around them. Pair it with the Vera Cruz church and the meadow of San Marcos on a single loop along the river.
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Pedraza
Entered through a single gate, the walled hilltop village of Pedraza lies about 35 kilometres northeast of Segovia and is best reached by car. Its arcaded square, castle and stone lanes take a couple of hours, and roast lamb from wood ovens is the reason to stay for lunch. On the first two Saturdays of July the village turns off its street lights for concerts lit by candles.
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Plaza Mayor
Arcaded along its sides and closed at one end by the cathedral, Plaza Mayor is where the old town's lanes meet, with café terraces around a bandstand in the middle. Use it as the halfway point between the aqueduct and the Alcázar: the pedestrian street known as Calle Real runs down from here to the arches. The terraces are quietest in the morning, before the day-trippers arrive from Madrid.
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Pradera de San Marcos
Across the Eresma below the Alcázar, this riverside meadow gives the classic view of the castle's prow rising above the trees. Come at sunset, when the stone turns gold, and stay for the floodlights after dark. Reach it on foot by the path down from the old town or along the river from the Vera Cruz church, and bring something to sit on, as it is open grass.
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Royal Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso
In the Guadarrama foothills about 11 kilometres from Segovia, La Granja is a royal summer palace set in formal gardens full of sculpted fountains. Give it half a day: the palace rooms take an hour and the gardens at least as long again. The fountains run only on certain days in spring and summer, so check the schedule before choosing a date. Buses leave from Segovia's bus station.
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Segovia Cathedral
Late Gothic and honey-coloured, the cathedral rises at the top of Plaza Mayor, its pinnacles visible from every approach to the town. Inside, the side chapels and the cloister fill an hour without hurry. Guided tower visits climb to the bell chamber for a view across the rooftops to the Alcázar; they run at set times with limited places, so ask at the ticket desk on arrival.
