Things to do
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Istán
Water runs through stone channels beside the lanes of this mountain village above the Concepción reservoir. The road up from the coast winds through hills of pine and cork oak, and the village itself is quiet, white and built for a slow walk. Several trails start nearby, including one toward La Concha. Come in the morning for the views over the reservoir before the haze builds.
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La Concha
Rising straight behind the town, this grey limestone peak is the summit that dominates every view from the beach. The usual route climbs from Istán or from the Juanar side, a long day on rocky ground with no shade and no water on the ridge. Start at first light, carry plenty to drink and avoid the climb in high summer, when the heat on the bare rock is serious.
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Marbella Club Hotel
Set in gardens on the coast between the town and Puerto Banús, this hotel spreads across low white villas with a private beach. Rooms sit among palms and bougainvillea, and the beach club fronts the sea. Book well ahead for July and August. It is a car or taxi ride from the old town, which sits a few kilometres east.
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Marbella Old Town
Plaza de los Naranjos sits at the heart of the casco antiguo under rows of orange trees, and whitewashed lanes hung with flower pots spread out from it. Come early in the morning or after dark, when the day heat and the tour groups have gone. Two hours covers the lanes, the parish church and a drink on the square, and every street is flat enough to walk in sandals.
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Museo del Grabado Español Contemporáneo
Prints rather than paintings fill this museum in the old town, from etchings and lithographs to screenprints by major Spanish artists of the last century. The building itself is an old stone hospital with a quiet courtyard. An hour is enough for the rooms. It makes a cool escape from the lanes on a hot afternoon, and the labels carry English as well as Spanish.
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Ojén
Steep white streets climb the hillside in this village a short drive inland, where the coast feels far away within a few bends of the road. Walk up to the church and the old fountain, then eat in one of the bars on the square. The road beyond the village continues to the Juanar pine forest and its walking trails, which stay cooler than the coast in summer.
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Parque de la Alameda
Shaded by old trees and ringed with benches of painted ceramic tiles, this small park links the old town to the seafront. A marble fountain stands at its centre, and the Avenida del Mar runs from its southern edge down to the beach, lined with bronze sculptures. Stop here on the walk between the lanes and the sea, in the shade at midday.
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Playa de la Fontanilla
Golden sand runs along the front of the town centre here, backed by the paved promenade and a string of beach bars. Lifeguards and hire loungers make it an easy family beach in summer, and the old town is a short walk inland. Arrive before eleven in July and August to find space near the water, when the sand fills from late morning.
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Puerto Banús
Moored superyachts and designer boutiques along the quay give this marina west of the centre its reputation. Come in the evening, when the boats are lit and the waterfront terraces fill. Parking is tight in summer, so a taxi or the coastal bus is easier than a car. The beach beside the port is calmer than the quay itself and suits a swim before dinner.
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Roman Villa of Río Verde
Mosaic floors are the reason to visit these remains of a Roman seaside villa near the mouth of the Río Verde. One floor shows kitchen tools, pots and food in black and white tiles, an unusual subject for a mosaic. The site is small and fenced, so check the opening times before going. Allow under an hour and combine it with Puerto Banús nearby.
