Things to do
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Archaeological Museum of Asturias
Housed in a former monastery behind the cathedral, the museum walks through the region's past in clear rooms around a Renaissance cloister. Pieces from the hill forts of the Asturian interior and carved stones from the pre-Romanesque churches explain what is later seen on Monte Naranco. Allow an hour, and see it before the Naranco churches.
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Calle Gascona
Locals call this short sloping street the Boulevard of Cider, and almost every door opens onto a sidrería. Waiters pour the cider from above the head into a wide glass to bring it to life, and the drink comes a small pour at a time. Order fabada or cachopo to share. Evenings and weekends are loud and full; a weekday lunch is calmer.
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Campo de San Francisco
Peacocks and ducks wander this wooded park beside Calle Uría, the green centre of the city between the station and the old quarter. Paths shaded by old trees make it the easiest walk in town, with cafés at the edges and a playground for children. On Sunday mornings a market sets up along the Paseo de los Álamos on its northern edge.
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Mercado del Fontán
Iron and glass enclose the city's food market, set beside the arcaded Plaza del Fontán at the edge of the old town. Stalls sell Asturian cheeses, cured meats, fish from the coast and cider. Come in the morning, when the counters are full and the bars around the square serve their first vermouth. The plaza itself, with its low painted houses, is worth a slow loop.
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Monte Naranco
Rising straight above the city, the mountain is where Oviedo goes for air: footpaths and a road climb past the pre-Romanesque churches to the summit statue of the Sacred Heart. On a clear day the view runs over the rooftops to the Cantabrian range and the Picos de Europa. Low cloud often hides the top, so check the sky before setting out.
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Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias
Spread across two old palaces and a modern wing in the old quarter, the collection runs from medieval panels through El Greco's series of the Apostles and Goya to Picasso, Dalí and the Asturian painters of the last century. Entry is free. Allow an hour and a half, and come on a rainy afternoon, when the old town has little else under cover.
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Oviedo Cathedral
Gothic outside and older within, the cathedral keeps its treasures in the Cámara Santa, a small vaulted chapel holding the jewelled Cross of the Angels and the Cross of Victory, the emblem on the Asturian flag. One ticket covers the chapel, the cloister and the museum, and the visit takes a little over an hour. Camino Primitivo pilgrims start here, so the square is busiest in the morning.
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San Julián de los Prados
Locals know it as Santullano, and it is the largest pre-Romanesque church still standing, on the eastern edge of the city beside a busy road junction. Inside, the walls carry painted architecture in a Roman style, rare survivals from the ninth century. Visits are short and hours are limited, so check them before walking out from the centre.
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San Miguel de Lillo
Only the western end of this ninth-century church survives, a tall narrow nave a short walk up the road from Santa María del Naranco. Look at the carved door jambs, where acrobats and a lion tamer perform in stone. One guided tour covers both churches on the same visit, and the ticket is sold at Santa María by card.
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Santa María del Naranco
Built as a royal hall for a ninth-century king, this two-storey building on the slope of Monte Naranco is the finest piece of Asturian pre-Romanesque, and a World Heritage Site. Visits are guided, with limited places, and tickets are sold at the monument by card. Monday mornings are free without a guide. Bus A2 stops at Prerrománico, and the car park is a short walk below.
