Things to do
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Barrio de la Viña
Fishermen's families once filled the narrow streets of this barrio by La Caleta, and it is still the city's main quarter for fried fish, tapas bars and evening crowds. In February it becomes the heart of Carnival, when costumed singing groups perform satirical songs in the squares. Walk Calle Virgen de la Palma at dinner time, when the terraces fill and the street turns into one long outdoor dining room.
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Cádiz Cathedral
Golden glazed tiles cover the dome that rises over the seafront, and it is the landmark that fixes the whole old town from any rooftop. Inside, the crypt sits below sea level, and on rough days the Atlantic can be heard against the wall outside. Climb the clock tower for a view over the flat roofs and watchtowers, and allow over an hour for church, crypt and tower together.
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Castle of San Sebastián
Walk the long stone causeway out from La Caleta to this fort on its own islet, with a lighthouse beside it and open Atlantic on three sides. The walk itself is the reason to come, best in the evening as the light goes. On windy days waves break over the edges of the path, so check the conditions before setting out, and allow about an hour there and back.
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Castle of Santa Catalina
Star shaped walls enclose this seventeenth century fortress at the northern end of La Caleta, built with pointed bastions so that guns could cover the bay from every angle. Its courtyards and old barracks now hold exhibitions, and concerts are staged inside the walls in summer. Pair it with a walk along the beach below, and climb the ramparts for the clearest view back across the water to San Sebastián.
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El Pópulo
Behind the cathedral, three old stone arches lead into the medieval core of the city, a tight knot of lanes, small squares and whitewashed houses. The Roman theatre lies inside it, and the quarter is quiet by day and busy with bars after dark. Enter through the Arco de la Rosa beside the cathedral and leave by the Arco del Pópulo facing the town hall square.
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La Caleta
Fishing boats rest on the sand of this small beach tucked between two castles, and it is the stretch of the city most photographed at sunset. The water is sheltered and calm for a swim, and the tide changes the beach a great deal, from a wide strip at low water to a narrow one at high. Come in the last hour of light, when the sun drops into the sea straight ahead.
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Mercado Central
Arrive in the morning, when the fish hall is busiest and the stalls are piled with tuna, prawns, cuttlefish and shellfish landed that day. Colonnades enclose a covered market in the middle of the old town, with fruit, meat and spice sellers around the edge. Food stalls around the outer arcade serve fried fish and small plates through lunch, and much of the market is shut on Sundays.
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Museum of Cádiz
Two white marble sarcophagi carved with human faces, left by the Phoenician settlers of the city, are the pieces to see in this museum on Plaza de Mina. Upstairs, a run of saints painted by Zurbarán fills the fine art rooms, and the top floor keeps the old puppets of the city's traditional theatre. Allow about an hour and a half, and note that it is closed on Mondays.
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Oratorio de la Santa Cueva
Two chapels sit one above the other here: a sober underground chapel below, and above it an oval room in gold and white that holds three large paintings by Goya set into its arches. It is small and takes about half an hour, and the Goya canvases are the reason to go. Check opening times before walking over, since hours are short and it shuts for services.
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Parque Genovés
Clipped hedges shaped into domes and arches line the paths of this seafront garden between La Caleta and the Alameda. Exotic trees, a small lake and an artificial grotto with a waterfall fill the middle, and benches face the sea along the outer edge. It takes about three quarters of an hour at an easy pace, and it makes the shaded link on a walk around the old town walls.
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Playa de la Victoria
Wide, fine sand runs for kilometres along the newer side of the city, backed by a seafront promenade with beach bars and lifeguard posts in summer. This is the place for a full beach day with room to spread out, unlike the small coves of the old town. City buses run here from the centre, and in July and August the sand fills quickly by late morning.
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Roman Theatre
Rows of stone seating lie half buried behind the cathedral, uncovered after a fire cleared a block of warehouses in the old Pópulo quarter. An interpretation centre explains the site, and a gallery runs underneath the stands where the audience once walked to their seats. It takes under an hour, and it fits neatly into a walk through El Pópulo and the arches that lead into it.
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Torre Tavira
Climb to the highest point of the old town, an old merchant watchtower from which traders once looked out for their ships. At the top a camera obscura projects a live, moving image of the streets, roofs and harbour onto a dish, with a guide naming what passes across it. Capacity in the chamber is small, so reserve a slot ahead, and choose a clear day for the sharpest picture.
